
Class 



Book : 



EI.Q6. 



Author 



Title 



Imprint 



469SG6 GPO 








^^«^ 




'/'' r ! 



If rk. 



In Summer Days. 



NIAGARA FALLS, MACKINAC ISLAND, 



THE ST. LAWRENCE, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, THE HUDSON, 



THE ADIRONDACKS 



AND THE SEA, 



\'IA THE 



M ichigan CI knt^raIv 



■ I'HK NlAGAHA FaM^S KoUTE." 



•V 



1 , 

They come! the merry sumiitrr months of beauty, song and flowers; 

They come! tlie ghidsome months that bring: thick leafiness to bowers. 

Up, up, my heart, and walk abroad, fling cark and care aside; 

Seek silent hills, or rest thyself where peaceful waters gliile ; 

Or, underneath the shadow cast of patriarchal trci. 

Scan through its leaves the cloudless sky in raut-traMquillitv 

^Mji.tiin .M..iiiij.uh 




WITH COMPLIMENTS 



General Pa.ssenc;rr Department. 



i 



M ichigan C entral 

"The Niagara Falls Route" 

From Chicago to New York, 5 

Saratoga, Lake George axd the Adirondacks, . .22 

From Albany to Boston, 24 

To Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec, 28 

The St. Lawrence, 33 

The White Mountain-s, 38 

Mackinac and Northern Michigan, 44 

St. Clair, Mount Clemens and South Haven, ... 51 

Steamer Connections, . . 52 

Index, 55 



H. B. Ledyard, E. C. Brown, 

I'resideiit and Oen'l Manager, Uen'l Su)>erintendfnt, 

DETROIT. DETROIT. 



0. W. RUGGLES, 

Gen'l Tassi ;iiiJ Ticket Ai,-!, 

CHICAGO. 



P^K)LE Bros. 

PniNTERS AND KnORAVK 

Chicago. 



The Niagara Falls Route 



FROM CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. 



Five times a day one may see a throng of travelers gathered 
within the walls of the Michigan Central Passenger Station, at the 
foot of Lake Street, in Chicago, as the hour approaches for one of 
the finely appointed express trains of this favorite line to pull out on 
its rapid journey to the rising sun. All classes of the population 







(''iiiiL 



it4»4e-- 



are found there and representatives of every nation and every peo- 
ple of the globe; but, in the summer-time, from the first appearance 
of civic dust and heat, the predominating element is the summer 
tourist — quiet, well-dressed, intelligent, knowing the best places to 
go to and the best means of getting there. For the American, man 



6 IN SUMMER DATS 

or woman, is a traveler and knows how to travel, and finuing him- 
self or herself at that wonderful center of teeming life and in- 
dustry, the Garden City of the Lakes, goes eastward by the Mich- 
igan Central, "The Niagara Falls Route," to the thousand places of 
natural beauty and sublimity, of fashion, of health and of trade, that 
crowd the eastern and northern portions of our country. And 
grouped here about the long train of superb coaches led by the iron 
horse of glossy coat, powerful and quivering in readiness for the 
race like a thing of life, the scene is one of interesting activity. The 
pyramid of baggage rapidly disappears in the portals of the capa- 
cious baggage car; the uniformed conductor shouts "All aboard!" 
the last farewells are hastily spoken; the iron horse snorts as he 
leaps forward toward the mountains and the sea, and Off We Go. 

The traveler usually sees but the seamy side of the cities he 
passes through by rail. Not so of Chicago, as he looks through the 
clear plate-glass of the Michigan Central Palace Cars. For miles 
as he speeds along with accelerated motion, he sees on the one side 
the lovely lake, placid, rippled or storm-tossed, according to its vary- 
ing moods; on the other, verdant lawns and blooming parterres, pala- 
tial mansions and villas half hidden in trees and shrubbery, telling 
of the wealth, the luxury and the taste of the wonderful city arisen 
from its ashes. Then come the charming suburbs of Hyde Park and 
Woodlawn Park, the busy, interesting town of Pullman, on Calumet 
Lake, and then the broad expanse of level country. We have a chance 
now to look about us, and, though the softlj'-cushioned seats of our 
elegant coach, replete with all the comforts and conveniences that in- 
genuity can suggest and skill can furnish, woo us to luxurious rest, we 
hunger, as do all travelers, and seek tlie Dining Car. We find it a 
palatial hotel on wheels, with all its appointments elegant and taste- 
ful, scrupulously neat and clean. The accomplished chef prepares, 
and the active waiters serve, a sumptuous and admirable meal that 
incites us to valiant trencher duty and causes us to marvel at the 
moderate charge. We linger long at table, for the pleasure of a good 
dinner is enhanced by the charming panorama that glides swiftly 
by, and adjourn to the comfortable smoking-room of our palatial 
Sleeper to crow n our enjoyment with the reveries of a cigar from 
the Dining Car's superbly stocked coffers. 

At Michigan City (fifty-eight miles) we get our last picturesque 
glimpses of Lake Michigan, bordered by curious lofty sand-dunes, 
and with a sturdy looking light-house far out at the entrance of the 
harbor. Ten miles farther is New Buffalo (sixty-eight miles), 
worthy of note only as the junction of the Chicago & West Mich- 
igan Railway, which takes through cars and sleepers of the Michigan 

* Mileage given in tliis diaiiter ih frmii OhicHpi, 



V/A MICIIKJAN CENTRAL. 



Central through the great fruit region of Michigan to Grand 
Rapids and Muskegon, famous for tlicir furniture factories, plaster 
quarries and lumber 3'ards. Passing Buchanan (eighty-eight miles), 
whence a branch road runs out ten miles to Berrien Springs, we 
soon reach Niles (ninety-four miles), on the St. Josepli River, a hand- 
some and well-built city of nearly 5,000 inhabitants, in the midst 
of a riih agricultural region. The Air Line Di\ision to Jackson 
diverges here and upon it, two miles beyond the town of Cassopolis, 
is the delightful summer resort of Diamoiul Lake. From Dowagiac 
(107 miles) stages run to Sister Lakes, a very pleasant summer resort, 
ten miles from the railroad. As we pass on through Michigan we find 
all the way to the Detroit River a more rolling and picturesque 
country, full of fine farms, pretty villages and prosperous towns, with 
neat stations along the line. The country that the first surveyors 
pronounced utterly unfit for settlement and habitation has proved, 
under intelligent agriculture, to be of almost marvelous fertility. 
Kalamazoo (142 miles), but recently incorporated as a city 
with 14,000 inhabitants, is regularly laid out, with 

broad, fA isJ'> well-shaded streets, and contains 

nany fine business blocks, 
nuinerous manufactories 
and costly residences. 
The spacious and impos- 
ing buildings of the 
State Lunatic Asylum, 
a Baptist College and 
Female Seininary are 
located here. Nowhere 
in the world does cel- 
ery grow larger, whiter, 
more tender or more 
delicate in flavor than in 
the deep black soil about 
the city, and nowhere is that 
toothsome vegetable grown more ex- 
tensively. The Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad 
crosses the line at this point and a branch of the Michigan Central 
runs out forty miles to South Haven, a charming smnmer resort 
on the shore of Lake Michigan. 

Battle Creek (165 miles) is a well-built city of 10,000 inhabit- 
ants, at the confluence of Battle Creek and Kalamazoo River. It is 
famous for its splendid water-power and its manufactures — particularly 
of carriages, w-agons, threshing machines, agricultural implements 




S IN SUMMER DATS 

and flour- — which are more extensive than those of any other town 
of its size in the world. It is also the headquarters of the Seventh- 
Daj Adventists, who have here their large publishing house, printing 
books, newspapers and periodicals in a dozen languages, an excellent 
college and a magnificent sanitarium of high repute occupying a 
noble, elevated site. 

Marshall (178 miles) is a pretty little city of 4,000, famous for its 
flour, for the valley of the Kalamazoo is a noted wheat region. 
Albion (190 miles) is pleasantly located at the confluence of the two 
branches of the Kalamazoo in one of the richest farming sections of 
the State, ships flour of a high reputation and is the site of an 
excellent Methodist Episcopal College. We leave the river at 
Parma (199 miles) and in a few minutes stop at Jackson (210 miles), 
a busy manufacturing city of over 19,000 people, on the Grand 
River, at the intersection of six railroads. One division of the 
Michigan Central runs down the valley of this river ninety-four 
miles to Grand Rapids, the second city of the State, while another 
runs northward, through Lansing, the State capital, to Saginaw, 
Bay City and Mackinaw, on the strait of the same name, and a third 
forms the Air Line to Niles, running through the thriving towns of 
Homer, Union City, Three Rivers and Cassopolis. Through cars 
from Detroit run over the former and from Chicago over the 
latter. The city is regularly laid out and substantially built. It 
lies near the edge of the coal deposits of the State and the 
mines can be seen from the cars. The spacious stone buildings of 
the State Penitentiary are located here and the Michigan Central 
Passenger Station was the finest in the State until the construction of 
the company's fine building in Detroit. 

Ann Arbor (248 miles) is built on both sides of the Huron River, 
has a population of 8,000 and is noted as the site of the University of 
Michigan. This is one of the leading institutions of learning in the 
west, and with no distinction of sex, very low fees and a high 
standard of scholarship, attracts students from all parts of the 
country. It has eighty-three professors and 1,380 students in all its 
departments. The grounds are extensive and thickly planted with 
trees. University Hall is 347 feet long and 140 feet deep and is occu- 
pied by the departments of literature, science and art. There are 
nuinerous other buildings, including a new fire-proof library, large 
and valuable museums and, on a hill a inile distant, a fine observatory. 

Ypsilanti (256 miles) is a thriving city of 5,300 inhabitants, 
noted for its flour and paper mills and other factories, its valuable 
saline springs and excellent sanitarium. The State Normal 
School, with nearly eight hundred students, is located here and 



r/. ( MICIIIGAX CENTRAL 



liere also many Detroit business men have their suburban homes. 
Detroit (2S5 miles) is reached in another hour and the traveler 
tinds it a flourishing, prosperous city of 150,000 inhabitants, whose 
seven miles of 
lined with 
with gi- 







DETROIT, 

FROM WINDSOR. 




magnificent water front, 

shipping and crowded 

gantic elevators, 

ing foundries 

^ , smoke- 

p 1 iimetl 

furnaces, 

__™__,^ gi^e am- 

,l}|l ' \\ j ■ pie reason 

for the fine 

business 
blocks, imposing 
public buildings, 
elegant churches and magnificent broad avenues of 
palatial residences not always found in cities of more pretension. The 
central point of the city, from which the avenues radiate, is the Campus 
Martius, where stood the old frontier fort built by Cadillac in 1701 and 
in which Pontiac besieged the English for eleven months — surrendered 
by Hull and won again by Harrison. Facing it is the City Hall, a 
handsome structure in the Italian style, ornamented by marble statues 
of men famous in the long and eventful annals of the city. Oppo- 
site is a fine monument in granite and bronze to the memory of 
Michigan's dead in the war of the rebellion. The guide books state 
that "the freight depot of the Michigan Central is one of the most 
noteworthy structures in the city. It stands on the wharf and 
consists of a single room 1,250 feet long and 102 feet wide, covered 
by a self-sustaining roof of corrugated iron." The new Passenger 
Station of the same road is probably the finest building of its kind 
in the State and is one of the architectural features of the city. The 
\ isitor to Detroit should not omit the United States Marine Hospital, 
just above the city, which commands a fine view of the Canada shore. 
Fort Wayne, a bastioned redoubt on the river bank three miles below 
Belle Isle, the city's beautiful island park, and Grosse Point, which 
projects into Lake St. Clair seven miles above the city, at the end of 
a beautiful drive. 

At Detroit close connection is made in the company's magnifi- 
cent Passenger Station at the foot of Third Street with its Bay City 
and Mackinaw Divisions, which run 290 miles northward to the 
straits, the Toledo Division bringing more passengers from St. Louis, 
Cincinnati and the South, and with the Flint c*i: Pere Marquette and 



IN SUMMER DATS 



Detroit, Lansing ilv: Northern roads, which traverse the State to the 
northwestward. Here anotlier Palace Sleeping Car for New York 
or for Boston is attached to the long and heavy train that our un- 
wearying courser pulls along with seeming ease. On gigantic ferry- 
boats of steel, propelled by the most powerful engines, we cross the 
great river, picturesque Avith its busy craft, and find ourselves in Can- 
ada. The officers of Her Majesty's Customs pass through the cars, 
but their sole duty seems that of hurriedly but courteously affixing to 
each piece of baggage the little label that passes it free of search or 
duly through Her INIajesty's loyal Dominion. Wonderful speed we 
make here over the long tangents, but so smooth are the 

steel rails and so perfect is the construction of 

the cars, that we find no unpleasant 
jarring as we read our paper or our 
book. And, however great the 
speed, there is the utmost safety. 
The Michigan Central has always 
enjoyed a singular immunity from 
serious accidents — an immunity 
due not merely to good luck, but 
to perfect construction, admirable 
discipline and incessant Avatchful- 
ness. Science has invented a hun- 
dred curious automatic devices that 
^ btand between us and danger and the 
vigilance of the man at the throttle is 
unabated. At St. Thomas (39S miles), 
a busy, prosperous and attractive city with a population of about 
12,000, and the junction with the St. Clair Division of the Michigan 
Central, the Toronto sleeper we have carried from Chicago is taken 
by the Canadian Pacific and carried to Toronto, the Ontario metrop- 
olis. Here it connects with a magnificent Parlor Car running 
through, via Peterborough and Ottawa and down the wild-rushing 
Ottawa River to Montreal, and also with other cars for that wild 
and lovely region of the Muskoka Lakes, a very paradise for the 
angler, the sportsman and the lover of the untamed beauties of nature. 
Meanwhile, by day or by night, we hasten onward to meet again 
the waters we saw at Chicago's front, and flowing majestically past 
Michigan's chief city, Detroit. At Hagersville (457 miles), a neat 
little town of i,aoo inhabitants, connection is made with the North- 
ern and Northwestern Railwa^ys for Hamilton and points North. At 
Welland (498 miles) we cross the famous ship canal which has made 
possible the carriage of grain from Chicago to Liverpool without 




J^/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 



breaking bulk, and, seeing the lumbering old craft in its basins, in- 
wardly contrast the old with the new. Ten miles farther the Michigan 
Central has very extensive yards at Montrose (508 miles) where is 
handled the immense quantity of freight brought into and through 
Canada h\- the Niagara frontier. 




i.-. 



J^^ 



.^^ 



n 



\K^ 







HO/?itStfO£ FALL, FROM GOAT ISLAND. 

"In a few minutes," writes Col. Donan, "the conductor calls: 
'Falls View!' and one of the grandest scenes on earth bursts upon 
the gaze of a train-load of delighted passengers. The mighty river 
of blue-green waters surging and dashing and tossing its white arms 
of foam amid the mad rapids, then shuddering on the brink of the 
awful precipice, and plunging headlong into the yawning chasm 
below. The whirling and swirling of the floods. The thunderous 



12 IN SUMMER DATS 

roar that shakes the solid earth. The vast sheets of spray and mist 
and the sunbeams that, cauglit in their liquid meshes, die like aerial 
dolphins in a blaze of many-tinted pain. The rainbow that casts its 
resplendent arch across the majestic cafion. The glorious Horse- 
shoe, the American Falls, and all the lesser divisions of creation's 
greatest cataract. The tiny green islands that look as if any moment 
might see them swept down into the dizzy depths. An ocean pour- 
ing over rocky battlements into a bottomless hell of waters. And 
through and over it all the everlasting thunder of the falling flood. 

"The Michigan Central is the only real 'Niagara Falls Route' 
in the country. It is the only railroad that gives a satisfactory view of 
the Falls. Every train stops from five to ten minutes at Falls View, 
which is what the name indicates — a splendid point from which to 
view the great cataract. It is right on the brink of the grand cafion, 
at the Canadian end of the Horseshoe, and every part of the Falls is in 
plain sight. So long as the waters of that mighty river thunder 
down to the awful depths below, so long as the rush and roar, the 
surge and foam and prismatic spray of nature's cataractic masterpiece 
•remain, to delight and awe the human soul, thousands and tens of 
thousands of beauty-lovers and grandeur-worshipers will journey 
over the only railroad from which it can be seen. There is but one 
Niagara Falls on earth and but one direct great railway to it." 

At Falls View the Michigan Central will soon erect a building of 
large proportions and of an architectural character entirely in har- 
mony with its purpose and surroundings that will add. greatly to the 
convenience and enjoyment of travelers. This place was formerly 
known as Inspiration Point and of the scene from it Howells wrote: 
" By all odds, the most tremendous view of the Falls is aflforded by 
the point on this drive (from the Clifton House to the Burning Spring), 
whence you look down on the Horseshoe and behold its three 
massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gulf together." 

"After leaving Falls View the train sweeps along the edge of the 
mighty chasm to Suspension Bridge, giving constant and ever-chang- 
ing views of the cataract and the surging, boiling river, as it madly 
rushes and rages between the perpendicular walls of stone, three 
hundred feet high, that form the great cafion of Niagara." 

A little way down the river is Niagara Falls, Ont. (511 miles), 
where, on a bold projection of the river bank, is the Clifton House, 
from which very extensive and impressive views are obtained of the 
whole amphitheater and its rocky and aqueous walls. Just before 
reaching this station the traveler who is on the lookout for it catches 
a most charming glimpse of the snowy American Fall through the 
leafy vista of a sunken road. From a point near the Clifton stretches 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 



13 



the gossamer thread of a suspension foot-hridge 1,268 feet long to 
the American side of the river and of the views from which 
1 lowells gives an admirable description in Their Wedding 'jfoitriiey. 
A short distance below the station is Wesley Park, a kind of Can- 
adian or International Chautauqua. From Falls View to CliktoN 
(512.:; miles) the road passes alon'i^and through the International Park 




AMERICAN FALL. FROM BELOW COAT ISLAND. 

now being laid out by the Canadian commissioners. Here diverges 
the Niagara Division of the Michigan Central, which runs down the 
river to Niagara at its mouth and there connects with steamers 
across Lake Ontario to Toronto. One of the most charming outings 
for the citizens of Bulfalo or sojourners there is had by taking one of 
the double dailv trains on this Niagara Division at the Union Depot or 
Black Rock, crossing the International Bridge and following the 



H 



AV SUMMER DATS 



Canadian shore of the river, passing Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, 
stopping at Falls View, following the river canon to the Cantilever 
Bridge at Clifton, then making a detour through the hills to Queens- 
ton, within sight of Brock's monument on the heights, and finally 
taking the delightful sail across the lake to Toronto. 

Continuing the main line we cross the canon of Niagara River two 
hundred and fifty feet above "the angriest bit of water in the world" 
by the Cantilever Bridge, one of the most famous triumphs of modern 
engineering skill and daring. It is 895 feet in length, built wholly of 
thoroughly tested steel, and, slight as it is in appearance, sustained 
upon its double tracks, when tested, the enormous weight of eighteen 
locomotives and twenty-four heavily loaded gravel cars with a tempo- 
rary deflection of but six inches. In passing over it there is a mag- 



L-AKE ^ 




- ^ 'si/ . 



,^j^5»' 



LAKE 

::rie 



BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF NIAGARA RIVER AND VICINITY. 

nificent view of the Falls, the Rapids and the rocky walls between 
which the surging waters pour, while below is seen the Lower 
Rapids and the Suspension Bridge. 

At Suspension Bridge (513 miles) connection is made with the 
Niagara Falls Division of the New York Central, running to 
Rochester, via Lockport, and with the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens- 
burg Railroad, whose Sleeping Cars run through from Niagara Falls 
to Clayton, near the head of the St. Lawrence, Fabyans, in the heart of 
the White Mountains, and Portland, on the sea-shore. An attractive 
little village has grown up here, with several good hotels and a sani- 
tarium of merit, and a horse railroad has been constructed to the 
Whirlpool, a mile or two down the river. Leaving the station, the 
train backs down on a Y and then runs up the river to Niagara 



V/A AirCIllGAN CENTRAL. 



Falls station (515 miles), sometimes so close to the edge th;it one 
may look down upon the madly turbulent waters far below and get fine 
viev.s ot' the Cantilever Bridge, the American and Horseshoe Falls 
and the foaming amphitheater into which they pour. As on the 
Canadian side, the road skirts the new International Park which the 
State of New York, now being seconded by the Dominion, has, with 
wise liberality and an expenditure of a million and a half of dollars, 
made free to the world for all time to come. The American por- 
tion of the park embraces some three hundred acres. Unsightly 
buildings have been removed and the surrounding shores are 
gradually retaking the wild natural beauty they wore when Hen- 
nepin first gazed upon them two hundred years ago. Howells has 
graphically described 'the village as well as the falls in Their 
Wedding Journey., with which every tourist to Niagara should be 
fainiliar, and we will not linger here. Passing on, glimpses are had 
of the white-capped rapids and green islands, with the clouds of 
spray rising in the background; of the ri\or above widening out 
until the distant shores lose their sharpness of outline and distinct, 
ness of color, with its broad placid bosom giving no token of the 
irresistible power of its current, nor of the fate to which it so 
smoothly glides; of fine farms, prolific orchards, neat villages and 
prosperous looking homesteads. At Tonawaxda (526 miles) the 
Erie Canal is crossed, and soon we pass the International Truss 
Bridge of the Fort Erie Division of the Michigan Central, the model 
water-works, the commodious harbor at the head of the ri\cr and 
enter the city of i Buffalo, halting in the splen- 

did Union Depot on Ex- 
change Street, 536 miles 
ti om our starting point. 
Our entrance into 
Bufl^lo is a fit pend- 
ant to our departure 
from Chcago. We 
^ee nothing of the 
squalor of the city, if it 
exists, lint only cheerful \-iIlas, 
broad pkasanccs and blooming par- 
terres on the terraced heights on one side, 
on the other the broad harbor out of which 
Niagara tlows, picturesque with its shipping and the delicate blue of 
the lake! stretching into an horizon of turquoise and amethyst. 
Bufi:alo is the third city in size in the State and contains about 
250,000 population. It is well and handsoinely built, and is famed 




UNION DEPOT, BUFFALO. 



i6 



IN SUMMER DATS 



for its extensive lake commerce, for its gigantic elevators through 
which run unfailing rivers of grain, for its manufactin^es of metals, 
for its malt and beer, and as the converging point of ten diiferent 
lines of railway. Within the huge carapace of the depot, which 
seems alive with puffing of engines, transfers of baggage, bustle of 
passengers ever coming and going, close connection is made with the 
New York Central isi Hudson River, the only four-track railroad 
in the world, the West Shore, and the Buffalo, Rochester it Pitts- 
burgh roads. Two of the Central's tracks are set apart for the 
immense freight traffic of the line and two for the passenger trains 
that fly over the steel rails with lightning speed, yet with perfect 
safety, and the traveler soon feels that his chance of realizing on his 
accident insurance policy is too slight to be thought of. The Sleeping 
Cars leaving Chicago for Syracuse, Boston and New York run 
through without change, and the traveler is undisturbed bv the brief 
transfer at Buffalo. 

All the way across the State we look from the windows upon farm- 



stead and croft, 

orchards 

fields 

gen- 




^^,^^-5:/-,->r 



blooming gardens, fruitful 
and waving grain- 
shimmered by 
tie breezes, 
lazily- moving 
canal-boats, 
rippling 
brooks, cool 
pastures 
and verdant 
hillsides dotted 
picturesquely with 
sheep and cattle — a thousand scenes of 

quiet pastoral beauty such as Birket Foster loved to draw. All along 
and near the line are resorts that tempt the traveler to halt. Lakes 
Chautauqua, Keuka, Canandaigua, Seneca, Cayuga, Owasco and 
Oneida ; Genesee, Ithaca, Taghkanic and Trenton Falls ; Clifton, Avon 
Richfield, Ballston and Saratoga Springs ; Watkins Glen, Canandaigua, 
Ithaca and numerous other delightful places are not far off. Populous 
and prosperous cities, too, appear and disappear. Passing Batavia 
(574 miles), a pretty village of 4,000 people, with broad and 
beautifully-shaded streets, the site of the State Institution for 
the Blind, we come to Rochester (606 miles), a busy city of 
90,000 inhabitants, noted for its beautiful falls of the Genesee (about 
a hundred yards from the railroad bridge), with which are associated 
Webster's postprandial speech and Sam Patch's fatal leap; its flour, 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 17 

its boots and shoes, its engines and boilers, its agricultural implements 
and its nurseries and seeds, its splendid university and lovely ceme- 
tery, wiiile Their Wedding Journey has thrown about it a tender 
roseate glow of delicious sentiment that induces the sojourner to 
seek the veritable hotel that Basil and Isabel foimd so charming. 
The "old road" diverges from the main line at Rochester and runs 
via Canandaigua, Clifton Springs, Geneva, Ithaca and Auburn to 
Syracuse, 104 niiles. 

Lyons (639 miles), the center of the dried fruit industry, is passed 
and the train halts at Syracuse (6S6 miles), whose extensive salt 
springs and works will forever preserve it in history and whose 
pleasant location at the end of Onondaga Lake, important manufac- 
tures and fine public buildings make this city of seventy thousand 
people a memorable one. Chittexango (700 miles) is noted for its 
iron and sulphur springs. Oneida (712 miles) is six miles from the 
lake of the same name; at Verona (716 miles) is another mineral 
spring, and at Rome (725 miles) are railroad shops, rolling mills and 
an important lumber market. 

Utica (739 miles) is a large and handsome city of 35,000 inhabit- 
ants, on the side of old Fort Schuyler, possesses extensive and 
varied manufactures and is an important railroad and canal center. 
Northward to the St. Lawrence runs the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens- 
burgh Railroad, through a remarkably picturesque countrv, with num- 
erous gatewavs to the lake region of the Adirondacks along the line. 
Eighteen miles from Utica are Trenton Falls, one of the most en- 
Irancingly beautiful and graceful series of cascades upon earth. At 
Utica we are in the rich and picturesque Mohawk Valley and we con- 
tinue its descent through Richfield Springs, Little Falls (760 
miles). Palatine Bridge and Fonda (whence a little railroad runs up into 
the Adirondack region) to the old Dutch city of Schenectady (817 
miles), once the council ground of the Mohawks, later a Dutch frontier 
trading-post and fifty-five years ago the terminus of the Hudson & 
Mohawk Railroad, over which ran the first train on what is now a part 
of a great trunk svstem. Union College is located here and the citv 
counts 14,000 inhabitants now. At this point the Saratoga and 
Champlain Division of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Co's Railroad 
diverges to Ballston, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain and 
the Northern Wilderness. Half an hour later we roll into the quaint, 
historic city of 

Albany (S34 miles), the capital of the Empire State, with a pop- 
ulation of nearly a hundred thousand. The terminus of the Erie 
and Champlain canals at the head of navigation of the Hudson and 
the center to which several important lines of railway converge and 



iS 



IN SUMMER DATS 



river and then, 
cent iron 
course 



with many great manufacturing industries, Albany is a live, active, 
prosperous city and occupies a proud commercial position. But it 
celebrates this year the two-hundredth anniversary of its incorpora- 
tion and has a flavor of great antiquity to most Americans. Rich in 
its traditions of Dutch and English sovereignty, in its historic asso- 
ciations with the Revolution and the birth and infancy of the Re- 
public, in its literai-y and scientific accumulations, in its magnificent 
triumph of modern architecture and interior decoration that crowns 
its lofty Capitolian Hill and in its lovely vistas of the lordly Hudson 
that bathes its feet, it is full of interest to the observant traveler 
and worthy of a lengthy halt. 

Here separate our Palace Cars that started from Chicago and have 
journeyed so far together. One Sleeping or Drawing-Room Car, as 
the case may be, goes directly eastward over the Boston & Albany 
Railroad through the Taghkanic and Berkshire Mountains to Boston. 
We watch it deviously climbing the beautiful green hills beyond the 

also crossing the magnifi- 
bridge, follow the 
of the no- 
,£,blest stream 
In the world 
through 
a h u n - 
-, dred and 
fifty miles 
- of grand, 
» beautiful and 
' ever -vary- 
ing scenes, 
not one of 
which is uninteresting. At first the river 
is shallow, filled with islands, picturesque with great white groups 
of ice-houses, bordered by broad meadows and lined by jetties 
and break-waters to confine to its channel the waters that would 
too idly linger by the wayside. We can see the Overslagh where 
the Half Moon anchored and Hendrik Hudson took to his pinnace 
nearly three hundred years ago. Beyond to the westward loom up 
the solid blue masses of the Helderbergs, full of caverns and fossils, of 
mystical tradition and of memories of the war of the Anti-Renters. 
Gradually the meadows narrow and sometimes disappear and the 
numerous bold headlands rise more abruptly from the water. 

At Hudson (S63 miles), the head of ship navigation, and once an 
important whaling port, but now a quiet city of 12,000 people, inore 




ALBANY. 

FROM ACROSS THE RIVER. 






V/A MICIIKiAX CENTRAL. 



19 



neat, well-tilled 
most of 
from 



noted for its iron manufactures, the river has swollen into greater 
proportions of depth and breadth, and we gaze upon the strikingly 
beautiful panorama of the Catskill Mountains beyond it. On a 
lofty promontory near the city is the home of the artist, Church, and 
from Prospect Hill, 500 feet high, the view of the Catskills is 
incomparably fine. Four miles below is Catskill Landing, the point 
of departure for the mountains, and the view of them is varied with 
every curve in our course and every change in the atmospheric con- 
ditions. Round Top is 3,800 feet high and only eight or nine miles 
frorn the Landing, whence the little railway runs to the Kaaterskill 
House. All along the country is full of old Dutch homesteads, 

modern farms and costly villas, 
which, however, are concealed 
view by the high bank under 
which the railroad is con- 
structed along the water's 
edge. More and more 
giandly do the hills 
ai ise from the oppo- 
site side. More and 
more grandly does 
the river flow on 
between its con- 
fines or expanii 
- intolake-likebajs 
bearing on its bo- 
som a picturesque 
fleet of steam and 
Passing the vast and 
of the Hudson River 




sail. 

stately buildings 

Insane Asylum 



* -• on a commancmg emi- 

nence, the train halts for refreshments at Poughkeepsie (903 miles). 
From the station one sees little of the city, which is a large and 
handsome one, built on an elevated plateau and possessing eight im- 
portant educational institutions, one of which, Vassar, is probably the 
most noted female college in the world. Fourteen miles from New 
Paltz Landing across the river is the delightful summer resort of 
Lake Mohonk on the Shawangunk Mountains, i ,243 feet above the sea. 
Fifteen miles below Poughkeepsie is Fishkill (917 miles), where 
a steam ferry runs to Newburgh, a handsomelv-built city of 18,000 
inhabitants on the west shore, where an old gray stone mansion, in 
which Washington had his headquarters, is still preserved. Just 
below the broad expanse of Newburgh Bay comes to an end and we 



AY SUMMER DATS 



come to the famed Highlands of the Hudson, entered under the preci- 
pices of Beacon Hill and Breakneck, with the massive granite crown 
of Storm King (Butter Hill we called it when we were boys) tower- 
ing opposite 1,529 feet above the water. On the steep side of Bull 
Hill we see Undercliff, the old residence of George P. Morris, and 
just beyond pass Cold Spring (923 miles), with its famous cannon 
foundry immortalized on the canvas of Weir. Opposite, between 
Storm King and Cro' Nest, is the lovely highland Vale of Tempe. 
We cross Constitution Island near the spot where Arnold and Andre 
met, and stop a moment at 

Garrison's (926 miles), where Col. Comstock of Grant's staff was 
killed. For two or three miles, rounding the point above where 
the river makes a short turn at right angles, we 
have had a splendid view of West Point with 
its great piles of buildings that constitute the 
National Military Academy — its barracks, 
academic hall, library, observatory, 
etc., its level parade, Kosciusko's 
monument, gleaming white under 
the trees, and Sedgwick's and 
Scott's, of which only glimpses 
can be caught. Just below the 
feny landing from Garrison's, 
but on the lofty bluff 
just beyond the Acad- 
- I emy grounds, is Cran- 
J ston s (formerly 
Cozzen's), a famous 
summer resort. Near 
by Buttermilk Falls 
tumble over the ledges into the river, and way abo^•e on Mount 
Independence the crumbling walls of Fort Putnam can still be dis- 
tinguished. Just below Garrison's we pass Beverly's house, whence 
Arnold fled to the Vulture on hearing of Andre's capture. Every foot of 
the v.-ay here and onward is historic ground. Soon we run through a 
long tunnel under Anthony's nose, and emerging into daylight, sweep 
around the head of Peekskill Bay, with the imposing granite height of 
the Dunderburg on the opposite point, and lona Island in the sharp 
bend guarding the southern portals of the Highlands. At Peekskill, 
the home and birth-place of Chauncey M. Depew, the river broadens 
to an inland lake. The mountains spread apart, culminating to 
the westward in the solid masses of the distant Shawangunks. 
The banks are still rocky, but less precipitous, and beauty succeeds 




ANTHONY S NOSE. 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 2i 

to grandeur. Verplanck's Point, Stony Point, Haverstraw Bay and 
Croton Point are successively passed; 

Sing Sing (944 miles), with its vast State Prison; Tarrytown 
(950 miles), with its memories of Sunnyside and Sleepy Hollow, of 
Washington and Andre, of Diedrich Knickerbocker and Rip Van 
Winkle; the broad Tappan Zee; the populous suburban city of 
Yonkers (961 miles); and then, after twenty miles of the grand 
unbroken precipice of the Palisades, turn from the lordly Hudson to 
run down the bank of Spuyten Duyvel Creek. We have enjoyed 
such a glorious panorama as the world nowhere else affords and 
which remains forever ineffaced in the memory. And we cannot 
but believe forever afterward with the great traveler. Bayard Taylor, 
that " there is one river which, from its source to the ocean, unrolls a 
long chain of landscapes wherein there is no tame feature, but each 
successive view presents new combinations of beauty and majesty — 
which other rivers may surpass in sections, but none rival as a 
whole — and its name is, The Hudson." 

Along Spuyten Duyvel Creek to Harlem, fifteen miles yet from 
the Battery, we see the building of the city; splendid villas crowning 
the heights and here and there giving way to the solid blocks and paved 
streets of the metropolis; theelevated railroads show us the presence of 
urban traffic; and at last, after several miles of brick-walled sunken 
way, we rush into the Grand Central Depot, the only railroad depot 
in the city of New York (976 miles), and one in every way worthy 
of the great financial and commercial metropolis of the Nation. 




/.V .V UMMER DA TS 



Saratoga, Lake George 

AND TllK 

Adirondacks. 



" It is the glory of the Adirondack Mountains," says Wallace 
Bruce, " that no traveler has hecn able to liken them to any other 
part of the earth's surface, but that thej' stand alone in their pecu- 
liar type of sublimity and beauty." This great wilderness of 
mountain and yalley, lake and forest, within a few hours' ride of the 
most populous eastern cities, was, within a few years, very difficult 
of access and but little explored. But New York has now made it 
a State Reservation or Park and lines of rail surround it, sending out 
here and there little branches to pierce its fastnesses while the 
echoes of its solitudes are awakened by the rumble of the great old- 
fashioned stage-coaches on its mountain roads. The western or lake 
region is easily entered from a number of points on the Utica & 
Black River Railroad; the St. Regis region is reached by a narrow- 
gauge road from Moira or by stage from Malone, on the Ogdens- 
burgh & Lake Champlain road ; but by all means the best route to 
reach all the most beautiful and picturesque points of the mountains 
is by the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's Railroad from 
.Schenectady (page 17), via Saratoga and Lake George. 

Fifteen miles from Schenectady we come to Ballston Spa., 
which, with its valuable saline springs, was widely renowned as a 
summer resort until overshadowed by its near neighbor. It is now 
a handsome manufacturing town of 4,000 inhabitants. In two or 
three minutes more we reach 

Saratoga Springs (22 miles), the most fashionable resort of 
culture and refinement on the continent. The village, which is 
exceedingly beautiful, has a resident population of twelve thousand 
and a summer population often of five times that number. It claims, 
with a good deal of justice, to offer more attractions than any other 
watering-place in the world. It is charmingly located, surrounded 
by beautiful scenery, with blue ranges of distant mountains on either 
side. There are twenty-eight springs in the village, no two precisely 
alike; the hotels are colossal and magnificent; the boarding houses 
numerous and excellent; the facilities for amusement illimitable. The 
walks and drives are full of interest, that to the beautiful Saratoga 



1^/A MTCHTGAN CENTRAL. 23 

Lake, four miles distant, over a fine macadamized road divided 
in the center bj a row of shade trees, being the most noted. A nar- 
row-gauge railroad ten miles long runs to the summit of Mount 
McGregor, which affords extended views of the valley of the Hudson 
and the battle-fields of Bemis Heights and Saratoga. The main line 
of "the D. L^ H." runs south to Albany and the Adirondack Railroad 
follows the upper Hudson to North Creek, fifty-.seven miles from 
Saratoga, whence stages run thirty miles further to Blue Mountain 
Lake. The little steamers will take the tourist through Blue Moun- 
tain, Raquette and Forked Lakes, whence he may return either bv 
the same route or by the semi- weekly stage. At Riverside trains 
are met by stages for Schroon Lake, seven miles. 

Seventeen miles northeast of Saratoga "the D. ifc H." crosses 
the Hudson at Fort Edward, a thriving and handsome town, 
whence a branch diverges, via Glens Falls, to Caldwell on Lake 
George. One may descend this most beautiful of all lakes, as many 
travelers declare, threading the winding channel among its numerous 
islands to Baldwin, the terminus of another branch which joins the 
main line at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain. Twenty- 
eight miles beyond is Westport, the chief gateway of the Adiron- 
dacks, for from this point stages run through magnificent scenery to 
Elizabethtown, Keene Valley, Lake Placid and Saranac Lake — the 
latter forty-three miles from the railroad. Instead of returning by 
the same route the tourist will do well to make the circuit by White 
Face Mountain and Au Sable Forks to Au Sable Station, where 
the branch railroad may be taken around by Plattsburg to Port 
Kent. From this point it is but a few miles to Au Sable Chasm, 
no less interesting than Watkins Glen. If the wilderness be entered 
from the north the route will of course be reversed and the exit 
made at Westport. Adirondack Lodge, at the northern entrance of 
the famous Indian Pass, is but a few miles from Placid Lake, while 
Lake Henderson, at the southern entrance, is reached by stage from 
North Creek. Connection is made with the Lake Champlain steam- 
ers at Port Kent and Plattsburg and with the Central Vermont and 
Ogdensburg et Lake Champlain Railroads at Rouse's Point, fifty 
miles from the terminus of "the D. & H." at Montreal. 



24 



IN SUMMER DATS 



From Albany to Boston. 



The Boston & Albany enjoys the distinction of being the only 
double-track route between Boston and the Hudson and of the 
possession of superior road-bed and equipment. But it is also the 
most beautiful route in New England, 

outside of the White Moun- 
tain region. As the train 
climbs the green hills 
east of the Hudson, 
after crossing the 
- - long iron bridge 

from Albany 
(page 1 8), and 
before en- 
tering the 
defiles be- 
yond, the 
traveler has 
unrolled before 
him a panorama of 
I I'-mg extent and love- 
? bioad \ alley of the 
„^ Hudson foi moie than filty miles is 

7 HE BERKSHIRE HILLS. , -^ 

spread out before him like a map, the noble 
river gleaming in the sunlight, flecked with its numerous sailing and 
steam craft and sometimes hidden from view by its green islands, bor- 
dered by velvety meadows and bright towns and cities. To the north 
the smoke of Troy's furnaces and foundries hovers about Mount Ida 
like a pall. Further off rises Mount MacGregor, sacred now in our 
history, against the clear sky of the Adirondacks. Directly in front 
Albany rises grandly from the waters, with the noblest pile of build- 
ings of which anv State can boast crowning her Capitolian Hill. The 
deep azure masses of the Helderbergs are relieved by the paler hue 
of the western sky. And far down the river the magnificent heights 
of the Catskills stand out with photographic sharpness and clearness, 
but with such beauty of color as no photographer can ever depict. 
It is a scene that will live longer in the memory than many of 
wider note. 




VIA MICHrOAN CENTRAL. 25 

Passing out bcvond the hills of the Hudson the route traverses 
a rich agricultural region, dotted with many busy, flourishing towns 
and villages, until it reaches the Taghkanic Mountains beyond 
Chatham (24 miles*), the junction of the Harlem Division of the 
New York Central and the Hudson branch of the Boston & Albany. 
Leaving this sterile but picturesque region the State line is crossed 
and the region of the Berkshire Hills entered. From this point to 
the Connecticut River every mile of the way is of enchanting loveli- 
ness or of remarkable grandeur. Less elevated than many other por- 
tions of the great Appalachian system it lacks none of the elements 
of beauty and picturesqueness. Right in the center of this magnifi- 
cent region is 

PiTTSFiELD (fifty-one miles), a beautiful city of 15,000 inhabitants. 
It has a costly and handsome station, numerous fine buildings, an 
interesting history of a century and a half and many poetic and 
literary associations. Here is the old Appleton mansion in which 
stood The Old Clock on the Stairs of Longfellow. Here Lord 
Coleridge declared that "England has nothing more pleasingly 
picturesque than Berkshire." Here in the city park, called the Heart 
of Berkshire, a noble soldiers' monument, surmounted by a fine 
Color Bearer, by Launt Thompson, testifies to the heroism and patri- 
otic devotion of her sons. Here was the home of Thomas Allen, 
whose life of rare usefulness and practical benevolence was of more 
than local beneficence. Extensive manufactures, chiefly of textile 
fabrics, give employment to thousands, beautiful villas abound in the 
suburban streets and the lofty Taconic and Hoosac Hills environ the 
city. A couple of miles distant are Lakes Onota and Pontoocuc and 
the hills and mountains are full of romantic points. The Housa- 
tonic Railroad runs southward through "wonderfully picturesque 
and sometimes splendidly gloomy scenery." Northward runs a 
branch of the Boston & Albany Railroad to North Adams, in the 
Hoosac Valley, famous ibr its sheep, its cheese, its manufactures 
and its glorious scenery. Near by is the marble arch of its Natural 
Bridge, and towering above the valley is the majestic Grey lock, the 
highest mountain in Massachusetts and commanding a view "im- 
mense and of amazing grandeur." 

Leaving Pittsfield the rocky defiles of the Hoosac Mountains are 
pierced and the scenes of the passage of the Berkshires repeated. 
The Alpine character of the landscape is frequently very striking. 
"In approaching the summit level you travel bridges built a hundred 
feet above mountain streams, tearing along their deep- worn beds; 
and at the 'deep cut' your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose 
mighty walls frown over you." Running down the deep descent 

* Mileajje given iu this cli.ipter iss from Albany. 



26 IN SUMMER DATS 

for thirteen miles to Chester we follow the winding course of the 
Pontoosuc, ever fretting in its rocky bed, cramped between the track 
and the precipitous granite hillsides, leaping down the precipices, 
laughing in the dimpled sunshine and hiding behind knotty copses of 
evergreen. On, down the narrow valleys of the Westfield River, 
the mighty mountain masses seem tj constantly crowd upon the 
vision and the wooded heights and bare granite peaks contract the 
sky above, and when the view broadens out at the lower level there 
are "on every side rich valleys and smiling hillsides and deep set in 
their hollows lovely lakes sparkle like gems." Westfield (93 miles), 
is a busy village, making two and a half million whips and ten or 
twelve million cigars annually. It has a fine soldiers' monument and 
the State Normal School. We pass Pochassic Hill and Mount 
Tekoa on the left and meet the broad meadows of the Connecticut, 
basking in their rich inheritance of alluvial soil and unimpeded 
sunshine. The river crossed on a long bridge and we enter 

Springfield (103 miles), a handsome city of over 35,000 inhab- 
itants, with extensive manufactures of arms, cars, paper, metallic 
goods, etc., employing more than eight millions of capital and seven 
thousand hands. Unity, Christ and Memorial Churches, the City 
Librarv, with fifty thousand ^■olumes, and the granite Court- House, 
are all vmusually fine buildings. On a park of seventy-two acres 
stands the great quadrangle of the United States Armory, where 
nearly 800,000 stand of arms were made during the war of the 
rebellion. In serried ranks are to be seen 175,000, symmetrically 
arranged. 

" This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceiling, 

Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ; 
Rut from their silent pipes no anthem pealing 

Startles the villages with strange alarms." 

Passing through Wilbr ah am, the seat of the great Wesleyan Acad- 
emy and famous for its beautiful scenery. Palmer, where the Ware 
River and New London Railroads diverge, and Brookfield, a large, 
well-to-do, charming village, we reach Worcester (157 miles), the 
second city in the commonw^ealth in wealth and population, halting 
in the Union Railroad Station, an imposing granite building 514 by 
256 feet, with a graceful stone clock-tower 200 feet high. Worcester 
boasts many noble edifices and in her Soldiers' Monument, designed 
by Randolph Rogers, has one of the finest monumental structures in 
the country. But her chief claim is to the title of an academic city 
and her greatest pride is in her numerous fine schools and higher 
educational institutions, prominent among which are the State Nor- 
mal School and the Free Institute of Industrial Science, admirably 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 



27 



conducted and richly endowed. It is also an important railroad center, 
the Boston, Barre A: Gardner, the New York & New England, the 
Providence & Worcester, the Worcester, Nashua cSi Rochester and 
the Worcester & Shrewsbury all meeting the Boston «& Albany 
here. Dummy cars and omnibuses run out to the beautiful and 
popular resorts at Lake Quinsigamond, past which we go in contin- 
uing our route to Boston. 

South Framingham, the Chautauqua of New England, is the 
junction of the Lowell Division, upon which is Sudbury, the location 
of Longfellow's Wayside Inn. We pass through the wealthy suburban 
city of Newton and thence the route is lined with numerous pretty 
suburban villages. Brighton, the great cattle-market, is passed, the 
Charles River is approached on the left, the spires of Cambridge and 
the populous heights of Charlestown are seen, and a fine view is had 
of the compact and more ancient parts of Boston, crowned by the 
State House dome, before running into the elegant depot of the line 
on Kneeland Street, but a little distance from the city's best hotels. 
The salt sea air is grateful to the traveler's nostrils, and after he has 
wandered over Boston Common and under the classic shades of 
Cambridge, bathed in the surf at some of the delightful sea-side 
resorts near at hand, and steeped himself in the historic and literar\' 
associations that everywhere surround him from the Old South 
Wharf and Faneuil Hall to Concord Bridge and Lexington Green, 
he is ready for the White Mountains, the lovely lakes of New Hamp- 
shire and Maine, shadowed by green hills and lofty moimtains and 
swarming with finny prey. The beautiful city and harbor of Port- 
land, Bar Harbor and Mount Desert — grandest and most delightful 
of all the numerous resorts on the rock-bound coast of Maine — may 
be conveniently and speedily reached by the Boston & Maine Rail- 
road or by the International or other coasting steamers which ply to 
the ports of Maine and the maritime provinces. 




w ^^^■■W^^^'' 




28 



IN SUMMER DATS 



The Canadian Pacific 
Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec. 



The Michigan Central enters St. Thomas (page lo) over the dizzy 
ravine of Kettle Creek, by a long, high iron viaduct that has replaced 
the Avooden structure portrayed in Picturesque Catiada. It is a large 
and handsome town about half way between the Detroit and Ni- 
agara Rivers. It owes its prosperity to its railroad facilities and 



easy access to 
tant, the 
shore 



Port Stanley, only eight miles dis- 
chief harbor on the north 
of Lake Erie. The city is 
built on an escarpment of 
considerable elevation 
and from its western 
edge commands a 
magnificent outlook. 
"As far as the eye can 
reach, country villas 
and trim farmsteads 
stand out in relief 
against graceful bits of 
wild wood, or are only half con- 
cealed by plantations of spruce 
and arbor vitae. Intervening are 
broad sti etches of meadow or 
long rolling billows of harvest- 
land. Down in the deep ravine at our feet winds a beautiful stream, 
which has all the essentials of romance, except the name." Here 
connection is made with the Canadian Pacific which carries a 
through car from Chicago on to Toronto. 

The way onward to Toronto is through a charming rolling 
country, crossing successively the valleys of the Thames, Grand and 
Credit Rivers. It is an old, well-settled region, full of prosperous, 
solid-looking little towns and some of the finest and best-tilled farms 
and prolific orchards. There is sweet scenery along by Ingersoll 
and Beachville and the hill terraces in the heart of the former 
town are crowned with pretty villas. Woodstock (431 miles*) is an 




MONTREAL, FROM THE MOUNTAIN. 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 29 

important town with a stately pile of buildings devoted to the 
Baptist College, and numerous other solid structures. A few 
miles east is the old forest chateau of Admiral Drew, whicii, fifty 
years ago, yielded Mrs. Jameson one of her liveliest sketches. 
On the uplands of Blandford (440 miles) we find the dividing 
line between the basins of the Thames and Grand Rivers. Galt 
(451 miles), named in honor of the author of Lavjrie Todd., is beau- 
tifully located at the crossing of Grand River, just above an oval 
valley, surrounded by picturesque hills. It is built of limestone 
and granite and is a prosperous center of industry, containing large 
flouring mills, machine shops, foundries and factories. On the 
placid waters of the river are cast the shadows of the lofty and 
graceful spire of a new Presbyterian chvnxh. We pass Milton 
(486 miles), the junction with the Northern and Northwestern 
Railways, and at Streetsville (49S miles), an important railroad 
and manufacturing town, we cross the Credit River. Its head- 
waters, up the branch road that comes down here from Orangeville, 
swarm with speckled trout, while below are caught immense biss 
and pike. One of the prongs of this branch, which diverges also to 
Teeswater and Owen Sound, has its terminus at Elora, on the Irvine 
River, amidst some of the loveliest and most picturesque scenery 
in all Canada. 

Twenty miles beyond Streetsville, after passing the suburban 
town of Parkdale and breaking through the environment of hills, 
we enter Toronto (518 miles), the capital and metropolis of Ontario, 
which, from a French frontier post, 140 years ago, has grown 
to a handsome commercial city of 110,000 people. It covers an 
area of eight or ten square miles, on a low-lying plain rising some- 
what to the north, where it is bounded by the ancient margin of the 
lake. The view of it, however, either from the water or from the 
surrounding heights, is one of great beauty, with its array of dome 
and turret, arch and spire, and the varied movement of its water 
frontage. Its commerce and manufactures are very extensive and its 
churches and public and educational buildings are all well and sol- 
idly built and in most admirable taste, with greater purity of archi- 
tecture than is usually seen. The Wesleyan Methodist Church, 
with its massive tower surmounted by graceful pinnacles, and the 
Cathedral of St. James, are particularly fine. Osgoode Hall, an 
imposing building of the Grecian-Ionic order, contains the Pro- 
vincial law-courts which TroUope said were the m.ost commodious 
he ever saw. The passages, vestibules and hall are very hand- 
some. " But the University," continued this observant traveler, " is 
the glory of Toronto," and is " a manly, noble structure, free from 



3o IN SUMMER DATS 

false decoration and infinitely creditable to those who projected it." 
It is a Nortnan-Gothic building and takes rank, in his opinion, as 
" the second piece of noble architecture in Ca-nada, and, as far as I 
know, on the American continent." It stands in a large park and 
is approached by College Avenue, a mile long and shaded with 
double rows of handsome chestnuts and maples. The Queen's 
Park, comprising about fifty acres, part of the endowment of the 
University, is skillfully laid out and forms a delightful retreat; and 
"the Island," in front of the citv, is the popular pleasure resort. 

Besides the various branches of the Canadian Pacific and the 
Grand Trunk that center here, the Northern and Northwestern 
Railways run south to Hamilton on the lake and Hagersville on 
the Michigan Central, and north to the Georgian Bay, the Muskoka 
District and Lake Nipissing. According to Hallock's Sportsman^s 
Gazetteer, this region is "one of the most attractive in Canada for 
summer tourists, embracing what is known as the Northern Lakes, 
and comprising Lakes Simcoe, Muskoka, Rosseau and Couchiching. 
It is a popular resort for sportsmen and supplies the best bass fishing 
to be had in Canada, as well as superb trout fishing." Throughout 
this fascinating region land and water are curiously intermingled. 
The land is penetrated hy the arms of lakes in every direction and 
with indescribable involutions, while the lakes in turn are studded 
with islands, forming ever-shifting vistas of wonderful beauty. The 
rivers are broken by many falls and the dark fastness of the rocky 
wilderness relieved by the snowy spray of cascades. The woods abound 
with game and the waters with fish of rare size. Moreover, there are 
excellent hotels with mail and telegraph communication, steamboats 
(see Gravenhurst, page 53) and other craft on the lakes and other 
accessories of civilization for the comfort and convenience of sports- 
inen and their families. Much of what is here said applies also to 
the wild and cotnparatively unknown country lying along and north 
of the splendid new line of the Canadian Pacific between Toronto 
and Ottawa, which is one of the finest works of railroad construction 
on the continent. All about Agincourt (528 miles), Myrtle (552 
miles) and Peterborough (591 miles), which are junctions with the 
Grand Trunk, splendid hunting and fishing are to be had, as well as 
about Central Ontario Junction (628 miles), where the line is 
crossed by the Central Ontario Railway running from Picton north 
to Coe Hill, and Sharbot Lake Junction (687 miles), whence the 
Kingston & Pembroke Railway runs downs forty-seven miles to the 
head of the St. Lawrence, landing passengers in the very heart of 
the fine old city of Kingston. From Smith's Falls (725 miles) a 



r/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 31 

branch runs down to Brockville, where connection is made by ferry 
with the Utica & Black River Railroad at Morristown. 

Ottawa (769 miles) was thirty years ago selected by Queen 
Victoria as the Canadian capital and has rapidly grown to a popula- 
tion of thirty thousand. It is the entrepot of the lumber trade of 
the Ottawa Ri\'er and its tributaries and has a number of large saw- 
mills, flour-mills and other manufactories. It is substantially built, 
containing many stone edifices, among which are the Cathedral of 
Notre Dame, with double spires two hundred feet high and an 
imposing interior, and other churches, and the Grey Nunnery. 
The town lies between two waterfalls. The upper one, or Rideau 
Fall, is formed by the confluence of a small river with the Ottawa; 
and the lower fall — so called because it is at the foot of the hill, 
though it is higher up the Ottawa River, is called the Chaudiere, 
from its resemblance to a boiling kettle. The Rideau Fall, divided 
into two branches by an island in the middle, Trollope thought 
"pretty enough, and worth visiting, even were it further from the 
town than it is;" but the Chaudiere he considered very remarkable. 
"It is of trifling depth (forty feet), being formed bv fractures in the 
rocky bed of the river; but the waters ha\e so cut the rock as to 
create beautiful forins in the rush which thev inake in their descent." 

But Trollope justly declared the glory of Ottawa to be the Par- 
liament Buildings, constructed of cream-colored sandstone with 
arches of red Potsdam sandstone, on the rock above the river. 
"As regards purity of art and manliness of conception, as well as 
for beauty of outline and truthful nobility of detail, the work is 
entitled to the very highest praise. I knov/ no modern Gothic 
purer of its kind or less sullied with fictitious ornamentation. They 
look down from a grand eminence immediately upon the river 
beneath, which is rapid, bright and picturesque in the irregularity of 
all its lines. The view from the back of the library (a handsome 
polygonal structure on the north front of the Parliament House) 
up to the Chaudiere Falls is very lovely, so that I will say again 
that I know no site for such a set of buildings so happy as regards 
both beauty and grandeur." 

The Rideau Canal divides the town into two parts and its eight 
massive locks are worth seeing; and in New Edinburgh, across the 
Rideau River, is Rideau Hall, the vice-regal residence. A branch 
of the Canadian Pacific runs south to Prescott, opposite Ogdensburg, 
on the St. Lawrence. Another division runs up the Ottawa River 
to Lake Nipissing and through the unexplored wilderness north of 
Lake Superior, offering excellent facilities for visiting the grand 
scenery of this region, and the lover of the picturesque will not fail 



7,2 IN SUMMER DArS 

to take the ride to Haleys, 78 miles from Ottawa, and thence take 
stage to Les Chats and the Falls ot'the Calumet. Steamers, however, 
run down the river to Montreal, but the scenery below, though very 
fine at times, is unequal to that above. Resuming the main line, we 
cross the Ottawa, the Gatineau and the Kinonge — the latter at Mon- 
TEBELLO, the home of the famous leader Papineau, stop at Cal- 
umet (S31 miles), whence stages run to Caledonia Springs, and finally 
crossing the Ottawa again, on a long iron bridge of admirable con- 
struction, enter 

Montreal (888 miles), the metropolis of the Dominion, with 
a population of nearly 150,000 and a foreign commerce of seventy 
millions annually. No Canadian city is better known to Americans 
and many of our readers will need no description of this picturesque 
town of gray limestone, with tall spires and glittering roofs and 
domes backed by Mont Real ; its miles of solid limestone quays and 
locks and wharves lined with shipping; its large and magnificent 
cathedrals and churches; its spacious market and court-house and 
city hall ; McGill College and its unrivaled museum, in which, under 
the tutorship of Sir William Logan, TroUope thought Ihat even he 
might become a geologist; and the Victoria tubular bridge over the 
St. Lawrence. All these and the beautiful drive through Mount 
Roj'al Park and around the mountain are familiar to all readers by 
innumerable pictures and descriptions. 

Continuing his journey down the St. Lawrence, the traveler will 
take the Quebec Division of the Canadian Pacific and, recrossing the 
Ottawa, follow the north shore of the river. There is little of interest 
en route save Louiseville (74 miles from Montreal), whence stages 
run to St. Leon Springs, the inost popular of Canadian resorts. Three 
Rivers (95 miles) on the St. Maurice (page 37) and occasional 
views of the broad St. Lawrence. 

Quebec (172 miles from Montreal), the oldest, quaintest and most 
picturesque of Canadian cities, is almost as well known as Montreal. 
The old city is a walled triangular town three miles in circumference 
and with five gateways, three communicating with the lower town — the 
St. Louis gate, a beautiful Norman structure, leading to the Plains 
of Abraham, and St. John's, opening to Beauport and St. Roche. 
The leading attractions are the Ursuline Couvent, the great Laval 
University, the Basilica, and, above all, the superb outlook from the 
Dufferin Terrace. The drives about the city are very interesting, 
particularly to the Indian village of Lorette and eight miles down 
the beautiful Beauport road to the Falls of Montmorenci, 250 feet 
high. The Chaudiere Falls, nine miles below Quebec, and the Falls 
of Ste. Anne, are also very wild and beautiful. 



VIA MICIIIGAX CENTRAL. 



33 



The St. Lawrence. 



At Niagara Falls and Suspension Bridge (page 14) connection is 
made with the Rome, Watertown ^: Ogdensburg Railroad for the 
Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay and the St. Lawrence River. 




THOUSAND ISLANDS, LOOKING TOWARD ALEXANDRIA BAY. 

Most through travelers prefer taking the night train, which connects 
with the Michigan Central Atlantic Express from Chicago, not only 
on account of the greater speed, but because Niagara Falls are seen 



34 AV SUMMER DATS 

by the morning light and the most uninteresting part of the journey is 
made by night. Through Sleepers are run on this fast Steamboat 
Express, landing passengers early in the morning (but not too early 
for a good night's rest) at Clayton, on the dock of the Richelieu & 
Ontario Navigation Company, and enabling them, without loss of 
time, to make the trip through the Thousand Islands and down the 
Rapids by daylight and reach Montreal before dark. 

Those who have leisure to tarry a little en route and explore this 
fascinating region will either stop over at Clayton or make their 
headquarters at Alexandria Bay or at Thousand Island Park, on Wel- 
lesley Island, the largest of the group. Most excellent hotels will be 
found at all these points and all afford unlimited opportunities for boat- 
ing, sailing, fishing or other forms of pleasuring. A delightful trip 
may be had by taking the Islattd Wanderer, which plies on an intricate 
route between Alexandria Bay, Thousand Island Pari:, Round Island 
Park, Gananoque and Westminster Park, through tortuous channels 
and amidst the islands of innumerable shapes, sizes and character ; but 
to hire a boat and wander at one's own sweet will through the mazes 
of this marvelous archipelago results in the highest and most unalloyed 
enjoyment. According to the Treaty of Ghent there are 1,692 of 
these islands, but really more than 1,800 are counted, many of them 
but a few feet of granite rock or with but a single tree laving its 
branches in the cool waters, but others of a thousand acres in area. 
Some are bare as the hand, some verdant and grass-grown, others 
thickly umbrageous with forest trees ; and shelving beaches of sand 
or shingle alternate with precipitous cliffs rising sheer from the 
channel. Several of these islands — Pullman's, Little Angel, Comfort, 
Cherry and Wau-Winet — are owned in Chicago, and very many are 
adorned by buildings in every style, from the modest summer cottage 
to the magnificent villa and imposing caravansary, and numerous 
summei -resort, fishing and canoe associations and clubs have their 
headquarters here. Game is sufficiently abundant at no great dis- 
tance and the cold green waters fairly swarm with the gamy mus- 
kallonge, the nass, the salmon trout and other members of the finny 
tribe. " During the summer season the islands fairly teem with life 
and the reticulated channel of the river is flecked with the little sail- 
ing yachts and pleasure boats which ply among the islands like gon- 
dolas amid the palaces of water-bound Venice. Nor does the scene 
close with the wane of day ; as the setting sun gilds the nestling isles 
with his parting ray and the evening shades draw on apace, the 
glow of lights from one island is soon followed by the friendly 
response from another, then another, until the illuminated spectacle 
rivals even Venice herself in the splendors of a carnival dress." 



r/. I MIC UK, AX CENTRAL. 35 

Leaving Alexandria Bay, which is but twelve miles below 
Clayton, on one of the fine steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario 
Navigation Company, the tourist enjoys a view of most of the 
Thousand Islands, Avhich, commencing near Clayton, end with the 
Three Sisters, near Brockville and Morristown. Although the 
islands below Alexandria Bay are not so attractive as those above, 
the scenery generally is of a wild and interesting nature. 

Brockville (thirty-six miles), the terminus of a branch of the 
Canadian Pacific, is a substantial town of 7,000 inhabitants, with 
numerous fine private properties along tlie rugged river front, and is 
the prettiest city between Montreal and Toronto. Immediately 
opposite is Morristown, on the line of the Utica & Black River 
road. Ogdensburg (forty-eight miles), at the mouth of the Oswe- 
gatchie, is the largest and most affluent town in Northern New York 
and is the junction point of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, 
the Utica l\: Black River and Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Rail- 
roads, and has a population of nearly ten thousand, largely engaged 
in manufacturing and internal commerce. It has pleasant vistas 
through its beautiful maples and an interesting history. The com- 
mingling of the deep brown waters of the Oswegatchie with the 
clear green of the St. Lawrence is a curious sight. Opposite is the 
solid-looking little town of Prescott, terminus of a branch line of 
the Canadian Pacific running to Ottawa, the Dominion Capital. 
Below are the first of the series of rapids, Les Gallopes and the 
Rapide de Plat, not particularly exciting but serving as preludes to 
the greater ones to come. 

Leaving Dickinson's Landing, the steamer turns out into the 
swift current and a mile ahead may be seen the white stormy waters 
of the Long Sault stretching from shore to shore. There is a sudden 
cessation of the engine's pulsations and we feel the strength of the 
current. Extra men are at the wheel and others aft at a spare tiller. 
We plunge over a cascade at "the cellar" and the spirits, even of the 
nervous, rise. We enter the vast expanse of broken waters and 
glancing at the shore note the great rapidity of our passage. In front 
is a vast billow, seemingly motionless as a wall, of the beautiful 
deep emerald hue we noted in the center of the Horseshoe Fall at 
Niagara, and we hold our breath as the gallant steamer cleaves its 
way, only to meet a second, a third, a fourth beyond it. There are 
several miles of swift water yet to come, but the passage of the 
raging billows of the rapids is over in three minutes. 

Eleven miles below Dickinson's we pass Cornwall, the terminus 
of the ship canal around the rapids, and four miles farther, on the 
right bank, we see the Indian village of St. Regis, bisected by the 



36 



/jV summer DATS 



international boundary line, and take our leave of the United States. 
Dinner is announced as the steamer emerges on the broad Lake St. 
F'rancis, twenty-five miles in length. On leaving it we dash down 
the Coteau Rapids, two miles long, the Cedars, three miles, the 
Split Rock, most formidable of all these, and the Cascades. The 
waters and ourselves take breath again for the final plunge as we 
cross the twelve miles of Lake St. Louis, into which are poured the 
muddy waters of the Ottawa, at the head of -the island of Montreal. 



From Lachine 



. iTv^-sSSKSiMISI 



we see the bold outline of 

Mount Royal against 

the sky and the 

snowy breast- 

w oi k of the 

lime 




THE LACHIXE RAPIDS. 

Rapids across our path. Opposite the Iroquois village of Caughnawaga 
the paddles cease to revolve, and, as we drift steadily down, the famous 
Indian pilot, Baptiste, climbs on board from his bateau and takes com- 
mand at the wheel, as he has done for forty summers. The current 
grows swifter and swifter. Down the steep declivity of foam, with rocks 
and reefs and sunken ledges in front and on either hand, we plunge 
with an arrow's speed. This side and that the steamer swerves and 
sweeps, escaping destruction time and again by a hair's breadth. At 
last, as we glide under the great Victoria Tubular Bridge above the 
city, we release the tension of nerves and muscles and marvel at the 
skill and courage that has guided us safely through the perils of the 
descent. The danger, however, is much more apparent than real, for 



y/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 37 

the sturd}- pilots have mude these rapids the study of their lives and 
accidents ne\er happen. 

After one or more nigiits in Montreal (page 32), the commer- 
cial metropolis of Canada, the tourist may again take one of the 
daily steamers of this line 180 miles farther down the river to the 
quaint old city of Quehec. Varennes, fifteen miles below Mon- 
treal, has valuable mineral springs, but the first landing made by the 
through steamer is at Sorel (forty-five miles), a small place at the 
mouth of the Richelieu, with good fishing in the vicinity, and in the 
autumn excellent snipe shooting. Five miles below the river expands 
into Lake St. Peter, twenty-five miles long and nine miles wide, 
shallow, with crooked and narrow channel and noted for its storms. 
Half way to Quebec is Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. 
Maurice, with a population of nine or ten thousand and an important 
lumber market. Twenty-six miles distant bv stage are the famous 
St. Leon Springs and thirty miles up the St. Maurice are the Falls of 
the Shawanegan, with a sheer descent of 150 feet, and second only 
in magnitude to Niagara. Nothing more of interest is seen vmtil 
Quebec (page 32) comes in sight, rising majestically from the river. 

Passing the Isle of Orleans, below Quebec, the St. Lawrence 
attains and keeps a width of about twenty miles, with eighteen-feet 
tides, and the scene is often enlivened by seals and porpoises playing 
in the clear salt water. Touching at Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup 
and Cacoima, the Newport of Canada, the steamer crosses the river 
to Tadousac, 134 miles from Quebec, and passes up the vast wild 
caiion through which the Saguenay pours its black waters. Lofty- 
peaks and palisades tower on either side all the thirty-four miles to 
Trinity Bay, which is guarded by the majestic Capes Trinity and 
Eternity, rising grandly two thousand feet above the dark waters six 
hundred fathoms deep. And up to Ha- Ha Bay, and after reaching 
Quebec next morning the tourist will read, never to forget, Howells' 
fine description, in A C/iancc Arquaiutauce, of this impressive scenery. 




38 



IN' SUMMER DAI'S 



The White Mountains. 



That experienced English traveler and famous novelist, Anthony 
Trollope, frankly confessed, after his last American tour, "that there 
was a district in New England containing mountain scenery superior 
to much that is yearly crowded by tourists in Europe, that this is to 
be reached with ease by railways and stage-coaches and that it is 




BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 
dotted with huge hotels almost as thickly as they lie in Switzerland, I 
had no idea." Neither have most Americans, though nearly every east- 
ward traveler has the White Mountains for his objective point. If he 
lias never seen them he desires to satisfy one of the great longings 



I'/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 3.; 

of his life. And having seen them he would ever after wish to 
repeat his delightful experiences, climb again the glorious peaks, 
explore still farther the mountain solitudes and penetrate yet deeper 
the wild ravines and picturesque valleys of this marvelous region. 

From the West he will take the Michigaii Central and Canadian 
Pacific all-rail route to Montreal (page 32), or the St. Lawrence 
route to the same point. Thence by the Southeastern and Passump- 
sic Railways to Fabyans, via St. Johnsbury, stopping at Newport 
(104 miles) not only to dine but to take the little steamer that daily 
plies to the northern end of Lake Memphremagog and back and to 
climb the Owl's Head, from which, says Trollope, "the view down 
upon the lakes and the forests around and on the wooded hills below 
is wonderfully lovely." A third route is by the direct all-rail line to 
Boston and then northward; and a fourth is by the all-rail line of 
the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg from Niagara Falls, running 
Palace Cars through without change to Fabyans and Portland. At 
Norwood, where the night train from the Falls stops for breakfast, 
connection is made with the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain road. 

The scenery becomes wilder and more picturesque as we pierce 
further into the great north woods and the masses of distant mountains 
become visible on the horizon. From Moira a branch railroad has 
been constructed to pierce the Adirondacks, running to Paul Smith's 
Station within seven miles of that famous hostelry of the wilderness 
on the St. Regis. From Chateaugay stages run to the Lower and 
Upper Chateaugay Lakes, on the road to the famed Saranac, while but 
a mile and a half below is the wild Chateaugay Chasm, its towering, 
gloomy clifts and snowy cascades rivaling those of Watkins' Glen and 
the Au Sable. At Rouse's Point connection is made with the Dela- 
ware ic Hudson Canal Company's Railroad, which follows the western 
shore of Lake Champlain to Lake George and Saratoga, and witii 
the Central Vermont. Vistas of the lake and its indented bays and 
wooded islands and the blue mountains beyond meet the eye at every 
turn. On the other hand rise the rounded masses of the Green 
Mountains until the passage through their gaps reveals the majestic 
"Presidential Range" of the White Mountains, with Mount Washing- 
ton towering grandly above the surrounding peaks as the distance 
lessens and the soft shades and outlines become severe and rugged. 
There is a constant succession of attractive, thrifty villages, modest 
inns and grand hotels, varying views of the granite peaks, clear, rip- 
pling streams emerging from dark gorges and disappearing in verdant 
vales, everywhere enticing the traveler to linger amid their beauties. 

St. Johnsbury, one of the most beautiful towns in Vermont, 
with busy shops, foundries and manufactories and a literary and 



40 



IN SUMMER DAI'S 



musical culture above the average of New England towns of equal size, 
is the junction of the Passumpsic Railroad with the Vermont 
Division of the Boston & Lowell. It is well located on the Passumpsic 
River and has a population of 8,000. At Whitefield, Mount Gar- 
field and several other high peaks are seen on the right. From this 
point a branch road runs ten miles to Jefferson, which is in some 
sense a rival of Bethlehem on account of its elevated situation, pure 
air and general healthfulness. Sufferers from hay-fever and catarrhal 
complaints here find instantaneous relief. The outlook from the chief 
village, Jeiferson Hill, upon the Presidental Range, with Mounts 
Adams and Jefferson in the foreground, is extremely grand ; and 
Starr King declared that this place " may, without exaggeration, 
be called the ultima Thule of grandeur in an artist's pilgrimage 
among the New Hampshire Mountains, for at no other point can he 
see the White Hills themselves in such array and force." 

At Wing Road, six miles beyond Whitefield, the White 
Mountain branch of the Boston & Lowell diverges from the main 
line up the Ammonoosuc Valley. A fine view 
of Mount Lafayette and the Twin Mountains 
IS had from the station. Four miles up the 
blanch is Bethlehem Junction. A narrow- 
g luge road diverges here four miles to the chief 
} istern hay-fever resort, Bethlehem, a beau- 
tilul little village lying on the Lower Ammo- 
noosuc River, 1450 feet above the sea, in the 
e\ ening shadows of Mount Agassiz. "No 
' \ illage," said Starr King, " commands so 
grand a panoramic view. The whole 
horizon is fretted with mountains." A 
carriage road has been built to the 
summit of Mount Agassiz and the 
' walk is but a mile and three-quarters. 
Another narrow-gauge runs ten miles 
to the Profile House, near the north end 
of the Franconia Notch, and in the im- 
' ; mediate vicinity of Profile, Echo and Moran 
Lakes, Eagle Cliff, Lafayette, Bald and 
THE PROFILE. Cannon Mountains, the Flume, the Pool, 

the Basin and the Profile of the Old Man of the Mountain. The 
ten-mile walk or the stage-coach ride through the Notch is a most 
delightful one, flanked as it is by the grand mountains and preci- 
pices and the tumbling waters upon either hand all the way from the 
Profile House to North Woodstock, where the tourist may take 




J '/A MlCHiaAN CENTRAL. 



41 



the Pemigewasset Valley branch of the Boston iV Lowell down to 
the main line at Plymouth, twenty miles distant. From Campton 
Village a magnificent view opens up Mad River Valk-v with Tripvra- 
mid and Sandwich Dome in the distance. 

Continuing southward on the main line from Wing Road the 
train descends the valley of the Ammonoosuc, stopping at Little- 




'f-^^ t, U\T'^ A-^SHINGTON AND ADAMS. 

TON a prett\ to^\n of 3,000 people, whence 
stages run six miles to Franconia in the valley south of Mount Agassiz; 
Lisbon, with 2,000 inhabitants and good hotels (for that matter good 
hotels and excellent boarding houses with very reasonable rates 
abound throughout this region); Bath, whence stages run to Swift- 
water and other points up the wild Ammonoosuc, to Woods- 
viLLE, where the Connecticut is reached and where connection is 



42 IX SUMMER DATS 

made .icross the river at Wells River with the Passumpsic and 
Montpelier & Wells River roads. For eight miles to Haverhill the 
views of the winding Connecticut, bordered by rich intervales and 
enclosed by hills and mountains, are exceedingly picturesque. For 
several miles further, as the grade is ascended near East Haverhill, 
one sees Black Mountain and Sugar Loaf on the left and ahead the 
lofty ridge of Moosilauke with the hotel on the summit. Passing 
Warren Summit, more than a thousand feet above the sea, the view 
increases in beauty and grandeur as we glide down to Warren, 
whence stages rvm to Mount Moosilauke, one of the grandest and 
most easily ascended view points in the State. There are more than 
a hundred brooks in the town with numerous fine cascades and fifty 
iniles of trout fishing. Passing Mount Carr, near Wentworth, and 
the Graton Hills beyond, we continue the descent of Baker's River 
to its junction with the Pemigewasset at Plymouth, high hills and 
mountains rising on both sides of the track all the way. Plyinouth 
is an important town, the chief dining station on the line and the 
junction of the Pemigewasset branch to the Franconia Notch. It is 
quite a famous and popular resort and is located in the midst of 
beautiful scenery. The intervales here are broad and jiicturesque, 
with beautiful scattered elms. 

The Weirs is the landing place of the Lake Winnepesaukee 
steamer, Lady of the Lake, which meets all express trains at the 
station and plies to Centre Harbor, at the head of the lake, and Wolf- 
boro, on the eastern side. This charming tour of the lake should in 
no wise be omitted, even if the tourist does not visit the sequQstered 
loveliness of Squam Lake or climb the height of Red Hill and 
Ossipee Mountain for the magnificent views that Avill well reward his 
efforts. The crystal waters of Winnepesaukee ("The Smile of the 
Great Spirit") reflect the shadows of several bald mountains and 
surround nearly 300 islands of various sizes. The poetry of Percival 
and of Whittier has been often inspired by this romantic region and 
Everett declared, after his extensive tour in Europe, that his eye 
"has vet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around 
vou as you sail froin Weirs Landing to Centre Harbor." Crossing 
the outlet of the lake we come to Laconia, another favorite resort 
on the picturesque shores of Lake Winnesquam. Eighteen miles 
further we come to Concord, the beautiful Capital of the State and 
an important railroad center, only seventy-five miles from Boston. 

Seven miles above Bethlehem Junction, on the White Moun- 
tain branch, is the Twin Mountain House, a famous hostelry. Five 
miles beyond is Fabyans, but six miles from the base of Mount Wash- 
ington and the central point of the White Mountain region from which 



VIA MICHIGAN CENTRAL. ^3 

all others mav be easily and conveniently reached. Half wav to the 
base of Mount VVasliington are the Upper Amnioiujosue I'^dls, worthv 
of a long visit. From Ammonoosuc station to the sunimit it is three 
miles bv the wonderful Mount Washington Railwav, which has an 
average grade of 1,300 feet to the mile. It takes an hour and a half to 
make the ascent, the view constantly expanding and gaining iti beauty 
and sublimity; but the descent is accomplished much more rapidlv, 
and both in perfect safety. Only Starr King has given an adequate 
statement of the magnificent scene from the summit, 6,293 feet above 
the sea, and his detailed description is unquotable. Across the Great 
Gulf are seen the massive peaks of Jeflerson, Adams and Madison; 
and to the southwest the scarcely less elevations of Monroe, Franklin, 
Clinton, Jackson and Webster. Katahdin and Monadnock are seen 
in the distance and Winnipesaukee gleams in the sunlight. On the 
opposite side from the railway one may descend the carriage road to 
the Glen House, on the left, or into Tuckerman's Ravine, on the 
right, often finding snow arches still remaining in its wild recesses, 
unconscious of summer's coming. 

From Fabyans to Portland, the route is by the Portland A: 
Ogdensburg Railroad, passing through the Crawl'ord Notch in 
"observation cars," open at the sides and I'urnished with revohing 
seats, ai^brding a panoramic view of scenery remarkable for beaiitv 
variety and grandeur. The view from Mount Willard, at the gate 
of thj Notch near Crawford's, Trollope declared to be unequaled in 
all the classic Rliineland and Bayard Ta_ylor that "it cannot be 
surpassed in Switzerland." Near by are Hitchcock's Flume, Saco, 
Ethan's and Howe's Ponds, Gibbs', Ripley's and Arethusa Falls and 
Beecher's Cascades. At Glen Station connection is made with 
the stage line for the Glen House up Ellis River Valley ami through 
Pinkham Notch. North Coxwav, thirty-one miles from Fabyans, 
is a village of many attractions and great popularity, in the lovely 
intervales near Kearsarge Mountain. Passing down the smiling 
valley of the Saco and through Fryeburg, we skirt the wooded shore 
and sandy beach of Sebago Lake and soon reach the sea at 
Portland, ninety-one miles from Faybans, where we may take 
steainer or rail for Old Orchard Beach, Mount Desert and Bar Har- 
bor, Eastport and other resorts on the coast of Maine and the mari- 
time provinces. 



44 



IN SUMMER DAI'S 



Mackinac #^ Northern Michigan. 



The Michigan Central route to this paradise of the hunter and 
fisherman, tlie health-seeker and the lover of the picturesque, is via 
Jacksox (page 8), where the Fort Wayne branch of the Lake Shore 
& Michigan Southern meets the main line of the Michigan Central. 
Palace Sleeping Cars leave Chicago on the night train and run 



through without change to Bay 
connecting with Parlor Cars 
inaw City. The Saginaw 
Division runs through 
a section of the State, 
dotted with innu 
merable sparkling 
little lakes, that 
a generation 



City, there 
for Mack- 




ago was considered poor, swampy and almost untillable, but which, 
under an intelligent system of drainage and good agriculture, has 
proved wondrously rich and fertile. At Rives Junction (ten 
miles*) the Grand Rapids Division diverges, and five miles further 
is Leslie, a handsomely-situated manufacturing village of some 
1,500 inhabitants. Mason (twenty-five miles) is a stirring town of 
nearlv 2,000 people and the county seat of Ingham County. 

Lansing (thirty-seven miles), to which the Capital was removed 
from Detroit in 1847, is beautifully situated at the confluence of 
Grand and Cedar Rivers near the geographical center of the Lower 
Peninsula. It has a population of 10,000 and is well provided with 

^ Mileage to Bay City is given from Jackson , 



V/A MICHIGAN CENTRAL. 45 

good hotels, schools and churches. It has hroad streets and avenues 
shaded with handsome trees. The Capitol is one of the finest build- 
ings in the West and is a stately structure, 345 feet long and 191 
feet Avide, costing a million and a half of dollars. Three miles east 
of the city, on a farm of 676 acres, is the State Agricultural College, 
a most admirable institution in which the State takes much pride. 

Owosso (sixty-four miles) is an important and thriving city of 
4,000 inhabitants on the Shiawassee River, with extensive manufac- 
turing interests, shipping grain, flour, fruit, furniture, wool and lum- 
ber. Saginaw City (100 miles) is well located at the head of navi- 
gation on the Saginaw River, formed here by the confluence of the 
Shiawassee and Tittabawassee. East Saginaw lies on the east side 
of the river and the two cities, practically one, have a combined pop- 
ulation of 43,000. The large lake vessels ascend the river and load 
at docks in the very center of the city. Salt and lumber have made 
the Saginaw Valley rich and great, the annual production of the 
former exceeding three and a quarter million barrels and of the latter 
nearly a thousand millions of feet. The Saginaw branch of the 
Michigan Central runs eastward twenty-two miles to Vassar, on the 
Bay City Division, and through Coaches and Palace Cars run over it 
from Saginaw to Detroit. 

Bay City (114 miles) is a fine city of 34,000 inhabitants, including 
West Bay City on the opposite bank, five miles above the mouth of 
the river. It is said to be the most extensive ship-building point on 
the lakes, and shares with Saginaw the salt and lumber business of 
the valley. Steamers run to Alpena, Caseville and intermediate 
points. Splendid fishing is to be had both in the river and bay. 
Connection is here made with the Parlor Cars and Sleepers for Mack- 
inaw from Detroit, bringing passengers also from Toledo, Columbus, 
Cincinnati, Louisville and other southern points. 

Proceeding northward over the Mackinaw Division, we soon 
enter, and traverse most of the 182 miles to Mackinaw City, tlie great 
pine region from which come most of the great supplies of lumber 
that have brought the State much of its wealth and fame. The 
country seems but newly and sparsely settled, but the soil proves 
good after the removal of the timber and most of the enterprising 
little villages we see are the germs of flourishing towns. Much of 
the game has been driven out by the lumbering operations, but there 
is still plenty of it in the wilderness back from the railroad, and the 
numerous streams and lakes are full of gamy fish. 

From PiNCONNiNG (nineteen miles*) a branch road with numer- 
ous tributaries, in all sixty-three miles, penetrates the lumber region 
west of the line. At Alger, named in honor of the gallant and 

* Mileajje lo Mackinaw City is given from Bay Citj;. 



46 



IN SUMMER DAI'S 



enterprising Governor of the State, connection is made with the 
Detroit, Bay City & Alpena Railroad, now completed for eighty-three 
miles to Black River and under construction to Alpena. Tawas, Au 
Sable, Oscoda and Harrisville are important points on this road which 
offer many attractions to the enthusiastic disciples of Izaak Walton. 
St. Helen (sixty-five miles) fronts upon a charming lake four 
miles long, one of the sources of the Au Sable and abounding in bass, 
pike and perch. The fishing is fine during spring and summer and 
the duck shooting equally good in the fall. At Roscommon (seventy - 
seven ^ 



the 




miles) we cross an arm of 
Au Sable, swift, clear and 
crooked, its waters alive 
with grayling and the 
vast forests along its 
banks full of game. Five 
miles by a beautiful drive 
through the pine woods is 
Higgins Lake, ten miles long by 
four wide, ^ "■ ~-*''^'. .^,t\-. surrounded by romantic scenery. 
The lake has no inlet """ and has been sounded in the center 

nine hundred feet without finding bottom. The water is so clear that 
a nickel can be seen at a depth of forty feet, and it has the peculiarity 
of always showing at least four distinct colors on the surface, dark 
purple, blue and two shades of green. On picturesque points along the 
shores are groups of summer hotels and cottages, boat and bath- 
houses and all the evidences of fashionable resort. Tlie water 
swarms with bass, pickerel, land-locked salmon, native whitensh and 
perch. A few miles away is Houghton Lake, one of the largest 
and most romantic of all the inland lakes, in which black bass of six 
to eight pounds are reported as not uncommon. 

Grayling (ninety-two miles), a thriving little town surrounded by 
lovely scenery, has an excellent railroad hotel and eating house. Here 
the main Au Sable River is crossed, and seven miles west is the Man- 
istee River flowing into Lake Michigan, for we are near the backbone 
of the Lower Peninsula of the State which culminates in elevations of 
nearly seven hundred feet above the lakes. Both these streams are 
famous for their grayling fishing, a fish that in America is confined 
to the waters of Northern Michigan. This beautiful fish, the 
thymallus tricolor of the naturalists, is without a peer in American 
waters. It is of a purplish gray color, with silvery white belly and 
small bluish-black irregular spots on the sides. The average length 
of this beauty is about ten inches, but he has the strength and dash 
and gameness of a young wliale. Utilike the trout, he loves the 



V/A MICHTGAN CENTRAL. 47 

clear, sandy bottom, where the water is ]iure and not very swift or 
deep. " Wade into the stream above them, drop your tiy into the 
water and let it quietly float down over their pool. There is a 
sudden twirl, a wild rush in the region of your fly, and you have 
hooked the prince royal of piscatorial prizes. Carefully give him the 
line, always keeping it taut, and if you have two or more flies on your 
line, the chances are that you will speedily have a fish for every fly, 
and then the battle begins. They fight desperately for life and 
liberty and rccpiire great skill to handle and land them. When the 
'playing' is done and the fish tired out with their struggles, they will 
lie almost motionless on the water as you reel them in. Slip your 
landing net with the greatest care under them and your triumph is 
complete. The prettiest and gamiest fish of the world lies an 
animated prism in your basket." 

From every little station along the line, alive with the whir and 

screech of saw-mills, one may make profitable excursions into the 

wilder- ness with rod and gun. We cross Indian River ami 

'If -•..^^sJ'V-s^*^ ^ TopiNABEE (154 miles) find the North- 

'Tj^fTly-^ ^^ii^'^ crn IIiv Fever Resort on the narrow 

'"^^■^4 ^^^''■*''^'^= ^-~^ — .»«=»=i=s-^=s^ peninsula between Mul- 

" %W¥ ^ > .^ * I 1 f A Ti f T 1 

<i„ - „i^k\ >,';A ^j*" ^ "in let and Burt Lakes. 

mB<^^^^^&^^ Vi^a.*^ The grounds form a 
1 n -J?" ./Artf^j^-^^Iirs?!— S5~ — natural park, rising in 

Ji! terraces from Mullet 

\^ '^ 'J Lake, covered with tim- 
__ ^J'^'~S\V'^ '"-• 'i"'J carpeted with winter- 

green,a)Dutus " — " — » =— t:^^^^ and sweet-fern. Thedry, health- 
fid climate, balsamic odors and outdoor life will infuse new vigor 
into the most wearied denizen of the city. It is one of the best points 
for hook and line fishing, bass, pickerel, muskallonge and whitefish 
being abundant in the lakes, with fin'=' trout and grayling streams 
near at hand. Mullet Lake is a magnificent sheet of clearest water, 
twelve miles by six and two hundred feet deep, with sloping beaches 
of white sand. One of the delights of the season is a trip on the 
daint\' little steamer that makes the tour of the " inland route," rim- 
ning from Mackinac Island to Cheboygan on Lake Huron, up Che- 
boygan River and Mullet Lake, landing at Topinabee and at the 
excellent hotel at the head of the lake for dinner, thence through the 
tortuous mazes of Indian River into Burt's Lake, ten miles long, then 
seven miles through the involuted course of Crooked River and up 
Crooked Lake to Odin at its head, whence a dummy railroad takes 
the tourist seven miles to the delightful Lake Michigan port of 
Petoskev in ample time to dress for supjier. Returning, the steamer 



Civ^'*"-'' 



48 IN SUMMER DA VS 

leaves Odin at nine in the morning and arrives at Mackinac at seven 
in the evening. 

Cheboygan (i66 miles) is a thriving town of 4,000 inhabitants 
with an important lumber trade and lake commerce. Steamers run 
to the famous Sault Ste. Marie, Manistique, Traverse City and 
Petoskej, landing at Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Les Cheneaux 
and other interesting points. Trout Brook and Little Black River, 
near Chebovgan, abound with brook trout, the vast wild-rice fields 
near the head of Mullet Lake afford splendid duck shooting, and 
snipe and woodcock are abundant. 

Mackinaw City (182 miles) is a small village at the northern 
end of the Lower Peninsula and is the terminus of the Michigan 
Central line. Powerful steam ferrj-boats run in connection with the 
trains to Mackinac Island and across the straits to St. Ignace, whence 
the Detroit, Mackinac & Marquette road runs to the wonderful 
iron and copper regions and marvelous scenery of the Upper 
Peninsula. The famous Pictured Rocks may be easily reached either 
bv this route or by steamer via Sault Ste. Marie. 

Mackinac Island is now a National Park, has been a military 
post for a centurv, Avas for forty years the headquarters of Astor's 
American Fur Company, has been fought over by French, British, 
Indians and Americans, and more than two hundred years ago was 
a mustering place of Marquette, Hennepin, Nicollet and La Salle. 
To the Hurons it was the " Island of Giant Fairies" and the home of 
numerous legends which Longfellow, who visited Schoolcraft here, 
wove into the poem of Hiawatha. Of its own wonderful natural 
beauty our limits will permit but the briefest sketcii. 

"The natural scenery of Mackinac is charming," writes, in Pict- 
uresque America., Constance Fennimore Woolson, whose admirable 
story oi Anne is a local as well as a national classic. " The geologist 
finds mysteries in the masses of calcareous rock dipping at unex- 
pected angles; the antiquarian feasts his eyes on the Druidical 
circles of ancient stones; the invalid sits on the cliff's edge, in the 
vivid sunshine, and breathes in the buoyant air with delight, or rides 
slowly over the old military roads, with the spicery of cedars and 
juniper alternating with the fresh forest odors of young maples and 
beeches. The haunted birches abound and on the crags grow the 
weird larches, beckoning with their long fingers — the most human 
tree of all. Bluebells, on their hair-like stems, s\ving from the rocks, 
fading at a touch, and in the deep woods are the Indian pipes, but the 
ordinary wild-flowers are not to be found. Over toward the British 
Landing stand the Gothic spires of the blue-green spruces and now 
and then an Indian trail crosses the road, worn deep by the feet of 



r/. I Miciin;.\x CEyrRAL. 



49 



the red men when tlie Fuirv Islaiul \\as thi-ii* i'avoritt: an^l Naereil 
resort." 

On the edye of ;i jireeipice ot' white limestone, one hnndrt'd 
and lirt-\'-nve teet high, jnst back of the town, is tlie fort ^\hiell, 
in picturesque beauty of location, has no ri\-al among all the 
tbrtresses of the United States. Its position somewhat resembles 



ing, but is much 



that of Fort Snell 

more romantic 

Magnificent 

views of the 

surround 

ing lakes, ^,^ 

channels *-\ 

islands - 

p r o m 

ontones . 

forests 

towns 

and ship 

ping are 

to be had 

from e\ 

ery point ot 

the lofty para *' ^^ 

pet; and the ^\olld 

aflbrds no grindei sight *^' l» 

than a suniise or sunser '' 

from the foi t,the gieat globe 

of crimson and gold seeming 

at its 1 ising to bui st up from 

the bosom of Lake Huion 

and at its setting to plunge 

into the midst ot Like Michigan, , . ,/,jii'/ 

casting a million prismatic tints of •'^1 f*),^^ ii 

glorious light on wa\e and sk;) Aich "* ^H A>^ /'' Rock 

is one of the wildest, weiidest, subhmest •<'?c« ro-^k ficaks of 

nature's handiwork in sculpture. The chisel prints of untold ages 

of whirling waters are all over it. It projects from the face of a cliff 

200 feet high, a gigantic bay window of stone, supported by a 

mightv arch 149 feet high at its summit. The rim or wall 

of the bav-window is about three feet wide and it bulges out some 

twenty feet from the cliif, overhanging the blue-green water of the 




5" 



IN SUMMER DATS 



lake a dizzy depth below. The view from the summit of the arch 
takes in a glorious sweep of fifty miles. The scene by moonlight 
from a boat below the arch is most enchanting. From the ruins of 
old Fort Holmes, on the highest point of the island, is seen a pano- 
rama of wonderful beauty and extent. Across a narrow strait Bois 
Blanc Island looms up with its light-houses and forests of white 
birch, while twelve miles off to the northeast can be seen the upper 
part of the Cheneaux Islands, an enchanting archipelago of some 
seventy-five or eighty beautiful islands, var\ing from two miles in 
length to mere green specks a hundred feet across, dotting the crystal 
waters which rush by, fifteen fathoms deep at the shores, and swarm- 




ing with whitefish, bass, pickerel, gamy muskallonge and lake trout. 
Every floating cloud or gleam of sunshine changes the glorious 
scene by varying the tintings of the waters, which range through 
every shade from deepest azure to palest opal green, from pm-ple 
and lavender to purest silver. 

In such a spot, with the glories of earth and heaven unrolled be- 
fore the gaze, where the atmosphere is as pure as the gales that 
wandered over primeval paradise, where the temperature is always 
cool enough to be bracing and invigorating, where a fly or mosquito 
never was seen, where the inducements to constant exercise of every 
sense and sinew are as boundless as the beauties of the place, and 
where the healing fragrance of the pine and hemlock and balsam-fir are 
borne on every breeze, dyspepsia, languor and low spirits take flight, 
hay-fever victims are at rest and catarrhs and asthmas disappear. 
Well might Horace Mann, writing of the influence of "The Wonder- 
ful Isle," say : " I never breathed such an air before. I think that 
this must be some that came clear out of Eden and did not get 
cursed." 



r/A MICIIICAN CENTRAL. 51 

St. Clair, Mount Clemens 

AND 

South Haven. 



The most widely-known and popular watering-place in Michigan 
is St. Clair, a prosperous, elegant little city of about two thousand 
inhabitants, pleasantly located on the west bank of the St. Clair 
River about half way between Lakes St. Clair and Huron. It is 
rendered easy of access from Detroit either by steatnboat or 1)\- 
through car over the Grand Trunk and Michigan Central, and from 
the east b\' the St. Clair Di\-ision of the Michigan Central from St. 
Thomas, which passes through the remarkable oil region of Ontario. 
The Oakland is a fine large hotel and sanitarium situated on the 
river bank just south of the city and near the Michigan Central 
Station. The river steamers and the ferryboat from Courtright land 
at the hotel wharf. It is a favorite place for those who wish a quiet 
and thoroughly enjoyable resort at all seasons as well as for those 
who seek relief from disease. The water of the St. Clair .Mineral 
Spring on the hotel grounds is of the same general class as the 
Saratoga and German JSaline Spas, so rare in this coimtry, but more 
powerful than most of them. Taken either internally or externally, 
as necessity may require, it has been found to be very efficacious, 
while the baths, hot or cold, are no less delightful than curative and 
result in a physical vigor that gi\cs new zest to life. The walks and 
drives in the vicinitv are very pleasant antl there is no end to the 
boating and sailing on the noble river, which affords splendid fishing. 
But a few miles south are the St. Clair Flats, famous to American 
and Canadian sportsmen for their vmrivaled duck shooting. Club- 
houses, hotels and private shooting boxes have been built there in 
considerable numbers and the fish and game dinners are famous. 

Mount Clemen.s, a handsome town of four thousand peojile, 
is but twenty miles from Detroit on the way to St. Clair. It is also 
accessible by boats, being about five miles from the mouth of Clinton 
River. Its surroundings are not unlike those of St. Clair Springs 
and its valuable spring waters belong to the same class. The hotel 
accommodations are of the best, while those desiring more seclusion 
■and quiet can find pleasant homes in prisate families. 



52 IN SUMMER DATS 

South Haven, a pretty little village of about two thousand 
inhabitants, is very prettily located on the shore of Lake Michigan, 
forty miles west of Kalamazoo (page 6). The main portion of the 
town lies on the south side of Black River, crossed by both bridge 
and ferry. On the north side is Village Park, a fine grove of oaks 
and pines crowning the summit of a bluff which conmiands an ex- 
tensive view of the lake. There are numerous cottages and summer 
houses for the accommodation of guests as well as private residences 
of the towns-people. At the foot of the blufl'is a broad beach, whose 
hard, smooth surface and gentle declivity make it a delightful walking 
or bathing place. The river is navigable for sc\ eral miles, flowing 
between banks of quiet pastoral beauty, boats and sailing craft abound, 
fishing is excellent and the walks and drives througli the fertile fruit 
and farming country about the town are very interesting. South 
Haven has enjoyed for many years a local celebrity as a watering- 
place without any effort or seeming desire for larger fame, but of late 
years the excellent train service and extensive connections of the 
Michigan Central have brought visitors from inore distant points. 

Orion Lake, forty-one miles from Detroit, on the Bay City 
division, is a charming sheet of water, about the shady shores of 
which are many delightful summer homes. 

There are numerous other delightful resorts and summering 
places in Michigan, most of which have been spoken of in their 
proper places in the preceding pages, but among mineral springs, 
in addition to the saline wells of Ypsilanti (page S), the Magnetic 
Mineral Spring at Eaton Rapids should not be omitted. The water 
is of quite a different character from those mentioned, being strongly 
impregnated with the sulphates and carbonates of calcium, sodium 
and magnesium and slightly with carbonate of iron, but having no 
saline ingredients. Eaton Rapids is twenty-four miles from Jackson, 
on the Grand Rapids Division of the Michigan Central, and its hotel 
accommodations are excellent. 



For information relative to routes, rates, necommodations, summer resorts, etc., apply 

to any of the following Agents of the Company: 
O. "W. RUGGIiES, General Passenger r.nd Ticket Asent, .... CHICAGO. 
F. I. WHITNEY. Assistant General Passenjjer and Ticket Agent, . . CHICAGO. 
W. R. BUSENBARK, f:ustern I'asseii^'er Atient. No. 57 Exchange Street, BUFFALO. 
NEWELL PETTEE, Traveling Passenger Agent, No. 57 Exchange Street, BUFFALO. 
JOHN G. LAVEN, Canadian Passenger Agent. No. 87 York Street, - - TORONTO. 
P. P. MURRAY, Southern Passenger Agent, No. 209 St. Clair Street, - TOLEDO. 

D. W. JOHNSTON. ;\Iiihii.'an Passenu-er Agent, No. 95 Monroe St, GRAND RAPIDS. 
W^. H. UNDERWOOD. Western I'assenger Agent, No. 67 Clark Street, - CHICAGO. 
L. L. CAUFY, Wisconsin Passenger Agent, No. 392 Broadw^iy, - - MILWAUKEt:. 
W. L. WYAND. Northwestern Passenger Agent, No. 169 East 3d Street. ST. PAUL. 

H. H. MARLEY, Southwestern Passenger Agent. KANSAS CITY. 

AMOS BURR, Pacific Coast Agent, No. 19 Montgomery Street, - SAN FRANCISCO. 

cm PASSENGER AND TICKET OFFICES AT 
No. 67 Clark St., CHICAGO, No. 57 Exchang-e St.. BUFFALO, 

No. 66 Woodward Ave., DETROIT. Boody House, TOLEDO. 



VIA MICHIGAN CENTRAL 53 



Steamer Connections. 



The following- important connections are made by the Michigan Central 
Tourist Tickets with some of the finest steamboat lines on American waters: 
AT RA TNTV" C o*-' '/)• D'ly line, leaving- foot of Hamilton St. atS.30 a. 111. (Sun- 
____^_^__ day excepted), stopping at the principal landings on Ihu Ihulson 
RivL-r and arriving at New York at 5.30 p. m. I'cople's line, leaving at 8.00 p. m. 
(Sunday excepted) and arriving at New York at 7.00 the next morning. Citizen's 
line, see Troy. M-.-als on European plan. 

■p A T -Q-nT-r-M" (Page23). Lake (jeorge steamers leave i.oo p.m. (Sunday excepted), 
.^.^_— __— — stopping at intermediate landings, arriving Caldwell 4.2^ p.ni 
ROSTOTT (I'ages27aiid42). Boston, Halifax & Prime Edward Island Steamship 

Line leaves Nickerson's Wharf at 12.00 m. every Saturday for Halifax, 

Port Hawksbury, Pictou and Charlottetown. International Steamship Eine leaves 
Commercial Wharf at 8.30 a. ni. (Sunday excepted); Railroad Wharf, Portland, 5.C0 
p. m. for Eastport and St. John; at 5.00 p. m. 1 hursdays for St. John direct; at 8.00 
a.m. Mondays for Annapolis, N.S.,and Tuesday and Friday atS 00 a.m. for Yarmouth. 
Boston & Bangor Steamship Eine leaves Foster's Wharf at 5.00 p. m. (Sunday ex- 
cepted) for Xorth Haven, Swan's Island, B.iss Harbor, Southwest Harbor, Bar Har- 
bor, South Goldsboro', Lamoine, Hancock and Sullivan, and on Monday, Tuesday, 
Th irsday and Friday at J.o") p. ni. for Rockland, Camden, Belfast, Searsport, 
Bucksport and Bangor. Portland Ste:im Packet Eine loives India Whaif at 7. 00 
p. m. (Sunday excepted) and arrives at Portland at 4 or a.m. Steamers leave Eong 
Wharf 3.0a p. m. Wednesday and Saturday for Philadelphia. Metropolitan 
steamers leave India Wharf g. 00 p. in. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday for New 
York. Steamers leave Central \\'harf at 3.00 p. m. Wednesday and Saturday for 
Norfolk and Baltimore. .Steamer leaves Nickerson'sM'harf at 3.oop. m. 1 hursdays 
for Sava.nnah. Steamer Star of the East leaves Lincoln's Wharf at 6.0J p. ni. 
Tuesday and Friday for Augusta and Kennebec River points. Steamers almost 
hourly from Rowe's Wharf for Nantasket Beach. 

Steamers leave Fall River 7.3 1 p.m. week days, S.30 p m. Sunday for New York 
on arrival of trains leaving Old Colony depot 6.00 p. m. -week days, 7.00 p.m. Sunday. 
-DTjpT Tivrprppi-ivT (via Central Vermont from Rouse's Point, pages 25 and 39). 
l3ur\,uil\U-lvjiN Champlain Transportation Eine steamer^. ir///y„;«xleaves9. i<; 
a. m. and 5.20 p. m., stops at Port Jackson and Port Kent and arrives at Plattsburgh 
11.15 a. m. and 6.45 p. m. Leaves at S.40 a. m. and arrives at Fort Ticonderoga 
12.20 p. m., stopping at intermediate landings. Steamer Reindeer leaves at t3.40 
p. m. and arrives at Rouse's Point ".i^o p. m., stopping at Port Jackson, Port Kent, 
Phittshurgh and Islands. See Fort Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh. 
PATDWTfTT (r''*£re23). Lake Georee steamers leave 9.45 a.m. and 1.30p.m. for 
\j±^uu W-Ciljlj j>.(]j^^,;n .,j,(j intermediate landings andarrive in three or four hours, 
p-r A ypQlM- (Page 34). Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company's steamers 
leave at 6.30 a. m. (.Monday excepted), on arrival of Steandioat 
Express, and arrive at Montreal at 6.30 p. m , stopping at Round Island Park, 
Thousand Islands P:irk, A1-. xandria Bay and other landings. Steamboat for 
Gananoque leaves 10 45 a. m. and 5. 15 p- ni. 

■cirN-Drn rnTr'n-Nrr\-cpT3nr' A (P'iae2^). Champlain Transportation Eine steamer 
JHQKI llUUJNDil.KUGrA V>^7„o//ieaves 1.3^ p. m., stopping at Crown Point, 
Port Hem y, Burlington, Port Kent and other landings arriving Plattsburgh 6.45 p.m. 
pi -rp-iu-rjiTT A (Page 17). Seneca Lake Steam Navigation Company's steamers 
V A. j^j.^yg jjj. ,-, ^- jj_ ^ ^j^jj j^^Q p_ jj, .jncl 5.10 p. ni. and arrive at Watkins 
at 1 1.00 a. m. and 5.45 ancl S.35 p. m. Meals on steamers. 

OV> ATT'TT'MWTTPC'rp (Page 30). Daily, on arrival of mail train for Bracebridge, 
<jJ^.H.vuiN.n.uri,oi Beaumaris, Port Carling, Port Cockburn and intermediate 
landings on Lakes Muskoka, Joseph and Rosseau. 

KTNPCJTmNr (f ^&^ 3°)- Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's steamers 
lyilN U-0 1 UlN ij.,,vg ^00 a „^_ (except Monday) for Montreal and Quebec; leave 
S.oo p. m. (except Sunday) tor Toronto and intermediate points. 

T\/r A PTTTIST A P TQT A "Nm (Page4S). H.annah, Lay & Company's steamers leave 
mAL^n.liNAL» IOIjAINU (^^.^gpt Sunday) at 7.40 a. m. and arrive at Traverse 
City 9.00 p. m., touching at St. Ignace, Cross Village, Harbor Springs, Petoskey, 
Charlevoix, Norwood and Torch Lake. Connection is also made with the Detroit 
& Cleveland Steam Navigation Company's steamers for Cleveland, Detroit and Lake 
Huron ports and with steamers for Manistique and Green Bay ports. 



54 



IN S UMMER DA TS 



HJ A PTTTTJ a lir PTTV (P^R^ 4S)- Steamer Atgomah leaves on arrival of 
lVl.H.O.i:v.llNAW v^ll I Michigan Central trains for St. Ignace and Mackinac 
Island, connecting at the former with Detroit, Mackinac & Marquette Railroad. 
Steamer Messenger leaves JNIonday, Wednesday and Friday at 7.00 a. m. for Sault 
Ste. Marie, calling at St. Ignace, Mackinac Island, Delour, p^ncampment and all 
points on the Ste. Marie River. Connects at Sault Ste. Marie with Lake Superior 
and Georgian Bay steamers. Returning, leaves Sault Ste. Marie Tuesday, Thursday 
and Saturday at 6.00 a. m. Steamer Minnie M. leaves Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday at 7.00 a. m. for Sault Ste. Marie, making same landings, and returning 
leaves the " So ) " Monday at 5.30 a. m. and Wednesday and Friday at 6.00 a. m. 
MONTR Ti' AT (I'<if;^s 32 and 37). Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's 

_i! steamers leave at 7.00 p. m. daily for Qiiebec and the lower St. 

Lawrence. Steamer Miramichi leaves at 5.00 p. m. on June 15th and every 
alternate Monday; arrives at Qiiebec at 2.00 p. m. on Tuesday and at Pictou 
(1,009 'iiiliis) on Saturday. 

-M-TTiTXT-RTTDV M W Steamers run thrice daily eight miles to Blodgett's Landing, 
INJiWauitl, IN. n. Qj.g^^ Island, Lake View, Liberty Island, Pine Cliff, 
Sunapce Harbor and George's Mill:^. 

NEWPORT VT C^S'S 39)- Steamers leave every morning for Magog, at the 
iNJi w JTWrxl, northern end of Lake Memphremagoa:, landing at the Moun- 

tain House, toot of Owl's Head , and at Georgeville and Knowlton's Landing and 
returning same afternoon. 

MT a P A T? A riATT (Page 13). Steamer Chicora leaves for Toronto twice daily 
INlAljAnii, UlMl. ^^ arrival of trains. 

PT ATT^IPTTRPH C'^S*^ 23). Champlain Transportation Line steamer Ver- 
jruAj. lODun'jxi ^^^^^^^ leaves 7.00 a. m., stops at Port Kent, Burlington, Port 
Henry, Crown Point and other landings and arrives at Fort Ticonderoga 12.20 p. in. 
Steamer A. Williams leaves at 2.45 p. m., stops at Port Kent and Port Jackson and 
arrives at Burlington 4.45 p. m. 

PnPTT ATSm (^^'iftC43). Steamers Z,<?7cwio» and City of Richmond \eA\e 11.00 
r-ux\,lUAlNl^ p_ ^_ (Tuesday and Friday), stop at Rockland, Castine, Deer Isle 
and Sedgwick and arrive at Bar Harbor at noon next day. International Steamship 
Company ieave6.oop. m. (Sundav excepted) and arrive at Eastport 9.00 a. m. and 
at St. John about 2.00 p. m. next day; returning leave I ortland in the morning and 
arrive at Boston about i.oo p. m. Portland Steam Packets leave 9.00 a. m. and 8.00 
p. m. (except Sunday) for Boston. Star Line steamboats four times daily for Peak's 
and Cushing's Islands. Steamer Express makes eight trips daily to Peak's Island, 
stopping at I^ittle and Great Diamond Islands. 
QTTTjirj-pip (Pages 32 and 37). St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company's 

— steamers leave 7.30 a. m., arriving at Murray Bay at 1.30 p. ni., Riviere 

du Loup 5.00 p. m., Tadousac 7.00 p. m., L'.\nse St. Jean 9.30 p. ni., Ha-H:i Bay and 
Chicoutimi, according to tide (best views of the grand scenery of the Saguenay 
River obtainable on the return voyage). Steamer Mircimic/iiXea^ves at 2.00 p. m. on 
Tuesdays, July 13th and 27th, August loth and 24th, September 7th and 21st and 
October 5th and loth; arrives at Father Point on Wednesday, at Gaspe and Perce 
on Thursday, at Summerside and Charlottetown on Friday and at Pictou (S29 
miles) on Saturday. 

PnTTC!TP'<^ POTIUT (Pages 23 and 39). Steamer Reindeer leaves t7-oo a. m. and 
ixwuon o r-wixi 1 arrives at Burlington 11.00 a. m., landing at Islands, Platts- 
burgh, Port Kent and Port Jackson. 

QTfR A P n T A TfTr (Page 43). Two steamers run daily to Harrison, at the north- 
OHiDAU-U ijAIVili ^j.^ g^j ^f j[jg jjjl^g^ ^^^ return, stopping at Naples, Bridgton 
and North Bridgton. 

m/-|-pTTvr A -nTpT^ (Page 47). Steamers on Inland Route to Odin 01 Crooked Lake 
IKJfll^JXaihth ,^^^ j^ Cheboygan and Mackinac Island. 

T(^RnNT(^ (Pages 1 3. and 29). Niagara Navigation Company's steamer Chicora 
leaves6.ooa.m.and i.oop.m.for Niagaraand Lewiston, where connec- 
tion is made with Michigan Central and New York Central & Hudson River Kail- 
roads. Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's steamers leave N'onge Street 
Wharf at 2.00 p. m. (except Sunday) for Kingston, Clayton, Thousand Islands, 
Alexandria Bay, Montreal and other landings. 

TROV Citizen's Line, leaving foot of Broadway 6.55 p. m. (Saturday excepted), 
I Sunday nights at 6.00 p. m., stopping at Steamboat Square, Albany, and 
arriving at New York at 7.00 a. m. Meals on the Buropean plan. 
WATKTW-? (Pa&"^ I'')- Seneca Lake Steam Navigation Company's steamers 
leave at 7.00 a. m. and at i.oo and 7.00 p. m. and arrive at Geneva at 
10.30 a. ni. and at 4.30 and 9.50 p. in. Meals on steamers. 

TT7-nirTDc< (Page 42). Steamers for WoUboro, Centre Harbor and other points on 
Lake Winnipesaukee connect here with all trains. 



I N DK 



NAMES IN KOMAN ARE KAILKOAD STATIONS.) 



Adirondack Mountains, N. V 


FAUK 

22 


Ag'incourt, Ont. 


3° 


Albany, N. Y. 


17-24-53 


Albion, Mich. 


S 


Alexandria Bay, N. \ . . 


34-35 


Alger, :Mich. .' . . . 


• 45 


Ann Arlior, Mich. . 


8 


Au Sable Chasm, N. T. . 


■ n 


Au Sable River, Mich. . 


■ 4'1 


Baldwin, X. Y. . . . 


23-53 


Ballston Spa, N. Y. 


22 


JSar Harbor, Mr. . 


27-43 


Batavia, N. Y. 


16 


Bath, N. H. . . . 


• 41 


Battle Creek, Mich. 


7 


Bay City, Mich. 


■ 45 


Beachville, Ont. 


28 


Berkshire Hills, Mass. . 


• 25 


Bethlehem, N. H. . 


• 40 


Blandford, Ont. 


■ 29 


Boston, Mass. 


27 43-53 


Brockville, Ont. 


■ 35 


Buchanan, Mich. . 


7 


Buffalo, N. Y. 


• "5 


Burlinifton, Vt. 


■ S.\ 


Caldwell, N. Y. . 


23-53 


Caledonia Springs, ^iif. 


■ i^ 


Calumet, Qiie. 


32 


Calumet Falls, Out. 


3^ 


Canandaig-ua, N. Y. 


■ '7 


Cantilever Bridge . 


14 


Catskill Mountai7is, N. T. 


10 


Center Harbor, X. II. . 


42 


Central Ontario Jiinction, On 


• ^0 


Chateaugay, X. Y. 


39 


Chatham, X. Y. 


• 25 


Chaiidiere Falls, Ont. . 


• 3' 


Cheboygan, Mich. . 


. 4S 


Cheneaux Islands, Mich. 


• SO 


Chicago, 111. . 


• 5 


Chittenango, X. Y. 


• '7 


Clayton, X. Y. 


34-53 


Clifton, Ont. . 


• '3 


Clifton .Springs, X. Y. . 


17 


Cold Spring, X. Y. 


. 20 


Concord, X. II. 


• 42 


Cratvford Notch, N. H. 


• 43 


Detroit, Mich. 


9 


Diamond Lake, Mich. 


■ 7 


Dickinson's I^anding, Ont. 


■ 36 


Dowagiac, Mich. 


• 7 



East Haverhill, .\. 11. 
East Saginaw, Mich. 
Eaton Rapids, Mich. 
Elizabethtown, X. "S'. 
Elora, Ont. . 
Fabyans, X. H. 
Fall's View, Out. . 
FishkiU, N. Y. 
Fonda, N. Y. 
Fort Edward, X. Y. 
Fort Ticonderogu, N. Y 
Franconia Notch, N. H. 
Fryeburg, Me. 
Gait, Ont. 

Garrison's, N. Y. . 
Genesee Falls, N. 1'. 
(jcneva, X. Y. 
Glen Station, X. H. 
Gravenhurst, Ont. 
Grayling, Mich. 
Hagersville, Ont. . 
Higgins Lake, Mich. 
Hoosac JMountaijis, Mas 
Houghton Lake, ^fich. 
Hudson, X. Y. 
Indian River, Mich. 
Ingersoll, Ont. 
Jackson, Mich. 
Jefferson, X^. H. 
Kalamazoo, Mich. . 
Kingston, Ont. 
Lachine Rapids, i^ue. 
I.aconia, N. H. 
Lake George, N. T. 
Lake Memphremagog , V 
Lake Molionk, N 1'. 
Lake Nipissing, Ont. 
Lake Quota, Mass. 
Lake Placid, N. 1'. 
Lake Simcoe, Ont. . 
Lake Winnipesaukce, N. 
Lansing, Mich. 
Leslie, Mich. . 
Lisbon, N. H. 
Little Falls, X. Y. 
Littleton, X. H. 
Louiseville, Qiie. 
Lyons, N. Y. . 
Mackinac Island, Midi. 
Mackinaw City, Mich. 
Malone, X. Y. 
Marshall, Mich. 



17 

^l 

23-53 

40 

43 
29 
20 
16 

17-53 
43 

?>-53 
4" 
10 
46 

25 
46 
18 

47 
28 

8-44 
40 

7 
30-53 
3^' 
42 
23 
39 
'9 
,So-3> 
25 
23 
30 
42 
14 
44 
41 
'7 
4' 
32 
17 

•1^-53 
4^-54 



56 



TNDEX—Continned. 



Mason, Mich. 
Michigan City, Ind. 
Milton, Ont. . 
Moira, N. Y. . 
Montebello, Qiie. . 
Montmoretici Falls, ^tie. 
Mo Ureal, Que. 
Montrose, Ont. 
Mount Clemens, Mich 
Mount Desert Island, Mi 
Mount Washinfflon, N. j 
Mullet Lake, Mich. 
Muskolca Lakes, Ont. 
Myrtle, Ont. . 
New Buffalo, Mich. 
Newburgh, N. V. . 
Newport, N. II. 
Newton, Mass. 
New York, N. Y. . 
Niagara, Ont. 
Niagara Falls, N. Y. 
Niagara Falls, Ont. 
Niles, Mich. . 
North Adams, Mass. 
North Conway, N. H. 
North Creek, N. Y. 
North Woodstock, N. H 
Norwood, N. Y. 
Ogdensburg, N. Y. 
Old Orchard Beach, Me 
Oneida, N. Y. 
Orion Lake, Mich. 
Ottawa, Ont. . 
OvjVs Head Mountain, 
Owosso, Mich. 
Palmer, Mass. 
Parma, Mich. 
Paul Smith's Station, N 
Peterborough, Ont. 
Pictured Rocks, Mick. 
Pinconning, Mich. 
Pittsfiold, Mass. 
Pittsburgh, N. Y. 
Plymouth, N. H. . 
Port Kent, N. Y. . 
Portland, Me. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 
I'rescolt, Ont. 
Profile House, N. H. 
Qviebec, Que. . 
Queenston, Ont. 
Richfield Springs, N. Y 
Riverside, N. Y. 
Rives Junction, Mich. 
Rochester, N. Y. . 
Rome, N. Y. . 



44 


Roscommon, Mich. 


46 


6 


Rouse's Point, N. Y. 


23-39-54 


29 


Saginaw, Mich. 


45 


39 


Saranac Lake, N. 1 . 


23 


■ 32 


Saratoga Springs, N. Y. 


22 


34 


Sault Ste. Marie, Midi. . 


• 4S 


32-54 


Schenectady, X. Y. 


17 


II 


Schroon Lake, N. T. 


23 


S' 


Sebago Lake, Me. 


43-54 


27-43 


Sharbot Lake Junction, Ont. 


30 


■ 43 


Shatvaneiran Falls, i^w. 


■ 37 


47 


Sing Sing, N. Y. . 


21 


• 30 


Sister Lakes, Mich. 


7 


30 


Smith's Falls, Ont. 


30 


6 


Sorel, Que. 


. 37 


• 19 


South Framingliam, Mass. 


■ 27 


.39-54 


South Haven, Mich. 


■ 7-Sa 


27 


Springfield, Mass. 


26 


21 


Sqiiatn Lake, iV. //. 


■ 42 


13-54 


St. Clair Springs, Mich. 


S' 


• 15 


St. Helen, Mich. . 


46 


12 


St. Johnsbury, Vt. , 


39 


7 


St. Leon .S/rings, ^ue. . 


32-37 


• 25 


St. Thomas, Ont. . 


10-28 


■ 43 


Streetsville, Ont. . 


• 29 


• 23 


Suspension Bridge, N. Y. 


14 


■ 40 


Syracuse, !N. Y. 


■7 


• 39 


Tarry town, N. Y. . 


21 


• 35 


Thousand Islands, N. T. and 


Onl. 34 


43 


Three Rivers, Que. 


32-.^7 


13 


Tonawanda, N. Y. 


- 15 


• 52 


Topinabce, Mich. . 


47-54 


31 


Toronto, Ont. 


14-20-54 


39 


Trenton Falls, N. Y. . 


■ 17 


• 45 


Twin Mountain House, N. H 


42 


26 


Utica, N. Y. . . 


■ 17 


S 


Verennes, Que. 


• 37 


■ 39 


Verona, N. Y. 


• 17 


■ 30 


Warren, N. H. 


■ 42 


48 


Watkins, N. Y. 


16-54 


• 45 


Weirs, N. H. 


42-54 


■ 25 


Welland, Ont. 


10 


23-54 


Wells River, Vt. . 


• 42 


41-42 


Wesley Park, Ont. 


■ 13 


• 23 


Westfield, Mass. . 


29 


43-54 


West Point, N. Y. 


20 


• 19 


Westport, N. Y. . 


• 23 


• 35 


Whitef.eld, N. H. . 


• 40 


• 40 


White Mountains, N. H. 


■ 38 


32-Sl 


Wilbraham, Mass. 


. 26 


• 14 


WingRo:id, N. H. 


• 40 


• 17 


Woodstock, Ont. . 


. 28 


• 23 


Woodsville, N. H. 


• 41 


44 


Worcester, Mass. . 


. 26 


16 


Yonkers, N. Y. 


21 


■ 17 


Ypsilanti, Mich. 


8 



